At Rockefeller Center's Flipper's Roller Boogie Palace — which is lowered like a basement below the busy avenues of Manhattan — fashion's esteemed editors and influencers found seats behind floral rugs that made the runway path for Victor Glemaud's Spring 2023 show. Eager eyes of New Yorkers and meandering tourists lined the perimeter above in anticipation. The DJ dropped a funky beat, and out came several roller skaters, dancing and decked in the designer's Pre-Fall 2022 line.
Inspired by a recent trip to the Bahamas, the spring collection is heavily inspired by Harbour Island, and is filled with two-piece bikinis, sheer coverups, bodycon dresses with keyhole cutouts and glorious capes.
The Haitian-American designer is an architect of beauty, knitwear his chosen medium. Prior to creating his eponymous label in 2006, Glemaud began his career as a design assistant to Patrick Robinson while studying at New York City's Fashion Institute of Technology; he went on to work as a publicist, studio director and style director before launching Victor Glemaud.
The accessories are notable, too. Locally made "Rita Raffia" hats brought mystique to various looks. David Yurman anklets subtly glistened on models strutting in cosmically silver Jimmy Choo shoes, either flat or heeled to the max. Big and bold sunglasses pay homage to the style of Miles Davis. Silver alligator bags dazzled in the sun.
In 31 looks, the 2017 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist's latest continues a trend of minimalistic color in his recent designs: Rather than mixing bright hues and color blocking, Spring 2023 comes in a limited palette — either deep black, bubblegum pink, cloud white or jacquard leopard — on head-to-toe looks, which creates a sense of sophistication while allowing us to appreciate other details of the garments.
Within that, there's a most fashionable innovation. The collection includes a new sheer silk crochet, featured heavily in the opening looks, which I'm aching to wear. From far away, its lines neatly trickle down the body's silhouette; up close, it's a brilliantly geometric pattern.
Each look possesses a subtle boldness alongside sportswear-inspired elements, and fearless hugs the curves of its wearer. By wielding fine materials and creating garments that connect you to your body, changing how you move to tease out your confidence, Glemaud aimed to fashion joy itself.
"Spring allows one to exhale and brings joy. I want every look, every element of this collection and show to bring a smile to your face," Glemaud wrote in the show notes.
Also in the notes: Glemaud credits inspiration to trailblazers in sportswear — Bill Blass, Giorgio Sant'Angelo, Stephen Burrows, Geoffrey Beene. The rugs that served as runways were created in partnership with interiors company Schumacher, with which the designer has worked with in the past.
Towards the end of the show, members of the crowd were swaying as Janet Jackson's "Together Again" came on. Models emerged for a final walk in all their knitted glory. Roller skaters returned to dance, cheer and sing along to whatever music the DJ made law in his energetic sets. The jubilant runway concluded as attendees lingered for more, including both the seated viewers and those looking in from the street.
See the full Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.