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Alexander McQueen Searches for Human Connection in Strong Silhouettes for Spring 2023

The collection is also inspired by Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch.
Naomi Campbell at Alexander McQueen SS23 Womenswear Show192

Alexander McQueen continues to showcase its collections outside of the fashion month system, presenting Spring 2023 in London on Tuesday, a week after the season wrapped in Paris.

The brand chose a special venue overlooking the bank of the river Thames, nestled within the gardens of the Old Royal Naval College, to debut "First Sight," as the collection's titled. The main runway was set up within a transparent inflatable structure designed by Chilean architect Smiljan Radic, which gave an expansive yet intimate feel to the show. 

In the show notes, creative director Sarah Burton explained how Alexander McQueen's latest is "about searching for humanity and human connection." That begins with the eye.

"The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness," she wrote. "Our clothes are designed to empower. They are stripped back, dissected and focused on cut, drape and silhouette."

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As always with the house of McQueen, strong, tailored silhouettes are a major through line. Still, Spring 2023 keeps with a theme we've seen elsewhere this fashion month, of not taking things too seriously — as seen in the cropped and slitted suiting that reveal bare skin and the trippy poly faille eye prints. 

Burton also cited Hieronymus Bosch as an inspiration in the show notes, and his influence is evident in the collection: Three looks feature the artist's fantastic illustrations of religious narratives printed on satin stitch embroidery, one on a body and draped corset belt, another on a bodysuit and a third on an evening gown with a trailing train. 

Alexander McQueen tapped some of the biggest supermodels to walk the Spring 2023 show, including Naomi Campbell, who walked in a black mesh bodysuit with satin stitch, topped with sequins and crystal eye embroidery. 

See the full Alexander McQueen Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below. 

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