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Must Read: J.Crew Has a New Concept Store, What's the Deal With Into the Gloss?

Plus, models, designers and casting directors weigh in on how to better challenge Eurocentric beauty norms on the runway.

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Wednesday.

J.Crew debuts new men's concept store in New York City
It's been a year a half since J.Crew tapped Noah designer and streetwear veteran Brendon Babenzien to revamp the struggling mall brand, and now he's brought his vision to retail: The brand, which filed for bankruptcy in May 2020, just opened a men's concept store in New York City's NoHo neighborhood. The 1,100-square-foot store, located at 316 Bowery adjacent to Bleecker Street, is said to "bring to life J.Crew's men's vision," according to Libby Wadle, CEO of J.Crew Group. In addition to featuring Babenzien's first menswear collection for the brand, the space also offers a curated assortment of vintage pieces, as well as a café and seating area. {WWD}

Into the Gloss hasn't been updated since June. What's going on?
In a tweet on Tuesday, writer Mattie Kahn pointed out that Into the Gloss, the once-buzzy beauty website created by Emily Weiss, hasn't been updated since June. So, what's the deal? "It's hard to say what's more surprising – that Into the Gloss, or ITG, hasn't published a story since June," writes journalist Rachel Strugatz, "or that it took that long for someone to point it out." The platform, which served as a launchpad for Glossier, isn't going gentle into that good night: According to a spokesperson, the site's editorial director was on maternity leave "up until very recently, which explains the lack of posts over the summer," but you can expect to see more from the site "later in October." {Business of Fashion}

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Models, designers and casting directors weigh in on how to better challenge Eurocentric beauty norms
As the Spring 2023 season drew to a close in Paris on Tuesday, Vogue Business concludes that a cast of "all-white, ultra-thin models" is no longer the norm on the runway. But as the publication's Editorial Associate Maliha Shoaib writes, "the industry is still largely built on a narrow definition of 'beauty' — one that views Eurocentric features as the paradigm." In a new piece, Shoaib tasked a well-rounded selection of models, designers and casting directors with sharing how the sector can better challenge harmful beauty norms, from colorism (a preference for lighter-skinned people of color) to featurism (a preference for Eurocentric features) in modeling, both on and off the runway. {Vogue Business}

Inside Dôen's flash-sale approach to resale
With a heightened focus on sustainability initiatives now creeping across the fashion industry, more attention is being paid to resale, namely from fashion brands bringing their re-commerce efforts in-house. Dôen, the cult-favorite direct-to-consumer womenswear brand known for its easy, feminine pieces, is doing things a little differently, recruiting a resale expert from Patagonia to help build a resale model in which customers can send in pre-owned Dôen pieces in exchange for store credit. From there, the label will host flash sales featuring approved pre-owned garments throughout the year. "We want to have a robust re-commerce program in 10-15 years," said Dôen's president Holly Soroca. "We're building up the groundwork now to set this up to be a long-term part of our business." {Glossy}

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