Graeme Armour and Lulu Frost at Milk
Milk studios during fashion week is Alice in Wonderland, sorta. Or maybe Narnia. Either way, it's snow globes of worlds all under the same roof, contained, separate, unexpected. On Monday morning, Graeme Armour and Lulu Frost were perfect examples of Milk's pocket realms: the two presentations shared a start time and address, but beyond that? Not much. Graeme Armour was a frosty, futuristic dream with nods to OpArt and famous villains (or at least I'm assuming, as a "Deville" dress was followed by a "Cruella" dress, and the "Norman" trouser was followed by "Bates" pant). Almost all looks were bold black and white, some (like the Cruella) with graphic print tails that seemed oddly sinister. But drama was to be expected from Armour, a Scot who credits the country's lack of sun as well as his apprenticeship at Alexander McQueen as inspirations. Even the models in uncomfortable looking updos raced down the mini runway, almost aggressively, as the photographers begged them to slow down. Was it intentional? Perhaps. This was a conceptual presentation, not one intended for retail mass market. But it was every bit as cool as it was cold. After Armour, walking across the hallway and stepping over the threshold to Lulu Frost meant tumbling down an entirely different rabbit hole. Accessories designer Lisa Salzer’s world was anything but icy: models lounged on oriental rugs scattered amidst leather trunks, record players, and wooden crates. Editors swilled champagne (it was noon) and swayed to the crooning of the Storms while admiring the set design and the vintage fashions from Amarcord.