The "exuberant aesthetics" of fellow Brazilian Carmen Miranda may have inspired Pedro Lourenço's Spring 2014 collection, but there were no fruit turbans to be found.
"I love to get obsessed with things and afterwards change extremely while keeping my identity," said Pedro Lourenco of fall 2013's move away from pink, the dominate color in his spring collection. For fall, Lourenco's inspirations were certainly more ambitious.
It's been three days since Nicolas Ghesquiere's unexpected departure from Balenciaga was announced and the rumors continue to roll in, involving one pretty big name and a couple of smaller ones. Here's what we've heard.
All the glamour of the Paris shows. All the comfort of your sweat pants.
For the third season in a row, Fashionista has covered Sao Paulo Fashion Week. Outside of the four main fashion weeks, Sao Paulo is proving to be an i
Melissa, the Brazilian-based brand that churns out candy-colored mold-injected plastic shoes, is no stranger to collaborating with artists, architects and designers--it's part of who they are. Past design collaborators include Vivienne Westwood, Jason Wu and Gareth Pugh, just to name a few. Their latest collaboration is a fitting one, as it's with fellow Brazilian designer Pedro Lourenço. A much buzzed-about name to watch, Lourenço showed his first ready-to-wear collection in Paris to critical acclaim when he was just 19.
Brazil is in a financial boom right now while other countries and regions are trying to dig out of near-recessions. And what better way to celebrate a booming economy than with a Project Runway franchise? Truly the way to know you've arrived! Brazil's Project Runway, called Projeto Fashion, follows the same formula as the other franchises (which in addition to the US have run in Korea, Australia, Latin America and Canada). There are 12 designers in this inaugural season, most of whom are in their early 20s, with a lone 39-year-old man representing the "old" crowd (his bio says he loves Madonna). The usual quirky backgrounds exist--after all, this is still reality TV. While most have gone to or are still attending fashion school, there's a miner, a former beauty contestant, and a "super Christian" (that's a Google translation from the original Portuguese) who is letting God guide her designs. Also--and I'm not sure if this represents the population at-large in Brazil--three of the six male designers have pretty decently sized ear gauges.
PARIS--The word wunderkind is often attached to Brazilian designer Pedro Lourenço--and for good reason. Though he's only 21 and has just shown his fourth ever collection, his designs show a depth and maturity far beyond his years. It probably has something to do with the fact that both his parents are established designers in Brazil and, according to his father Reinaldo, he's been sewing since he was three years old. But I digress... This spring he told me he was inspired by the idea of a toy soldier army and green architecture. They might sound like wildly disparate sources of inspiration but it worked on the runway.
We've finally reached the end of the resort road! And it looks like 2012 is going to be a good year for fashion. We've pulled together our top looks from ten of the season's best collections. Which were your favorite?
I went to Sao Paulo fashion week to learn about Brazilian fashion, and I was surprised and impressed with what I saw. (I was also tickled by some extreme looks that came down the runways--extreme looks are de rigueur on the runway and most folks don't get to see them--and so I wrote a lighthearted humorous post about them. Some folks were amused, many were not. So it goes.) Brazilian fashion, I learned, is much more than colorful printed beachwear and bikinis (though Brazil does both those things exceedingly well). Here are five Brazilian labels that should be on your radar. There are, of course, lots more to know about but here's a start. *My travel and accommodations for Sao Paulo fashion week, courtesy ABEST (Associação Brasileira de Estilistas). **All photos: © Agência Fotosite/Zé Takahashi via FFW.com.br
If you've flipped through any fashion magazine this past spring, it's safe to assume that you would have come across an editorial featuring color blocking. Now that the resort 2012 collections are coming to a close, it's become obvious that this trend is not going anywhere--in fact, it seems to be more popular than ever. More specifically, we've noticed it on countless short dresses. And why not? Resort collections seem like the perfect place for fun, easy, and colorful clothing. In fact, many of the looks show few additional accessories, presenting them as ideal for simple, no-fuss dressing. Whether through fringe, fabric or sequins, expect to see plenty of color-blocking in the next year. Click through to see highlights from the resort collections.
SAO PAULO--Wunderkind designer Pedro Lourenço (he's just 21) presented his resort collection at Sao Paulo fashion week this past week. It's his first resort collection and the first time he's ever shown his designs in his hometown even though both his parents are designers there--he showed his first two collections in Paris to much critical acclaim. Lourenço presented his collection a la runway shows of yore (and Tom Ford last year): in an intimate setting in the back room of a luxe hotel in Sao Paulo, Lourenço stood in the center of the room with a microphone and described each look in his collection, one model at a time. Occasionally Lourenço would forget a detail, and ask the model to come scurrying back and turn her around to show off a particular seam or fabric. Of course, I was inferring all of this as Lourenço presented his collection in Portuguese (luckily he was on hand to translate later). But it was easy to tell just from looking at the clothes that they were a slight departure from his past two leather-heavy collections.
PARIS--Confession: I didn't see Pedro Lourenço's show in person. Chalk it up to being a Paris Fashion Week rookie--I took the metro to the wrong venue and then got slammed in horrible traffic when I tried to take a taxi to the correct location (thinking a cab would be faster--I was wrong). As I pulled up to the Ecole Des Beaux Arts I saw Susie Lau leaving. "I missed it!?" I yelled stepping out of my cab. "Yeah, sorry," she said, looking actually a little sorry for me, because, she added, "It was really an amazing show." I was disappointed to have missed Pedro Lourenço's fall collection as I wanted to see the boy wonder who wowed the critics last season in Paris in action (though I guess he's not a teenager anymore, having just turned 20). Last season his collection was all leather--intricate work that was impressive to see but perhaps not as practical to buy and to wear. Lauren predicted this season Lourenço would veer more commercial--and he did. He dropped the leather obsession and went softer, using wool and fur on primary colored long sleeved dresses, skinny pants and knit tops, all done in mod-ish patterns. Looking at the photos, I'm even more peeved I missed the show. Tant pis.
PARIS--Nine days. Over 90 collections. But only ten can be considered the best. Click through for our top picks. Au revior, Paris!
PARIS--Pedro Lourenco is 20. He's Brazilian. His parents are designers. And he says that he's been designing professionally since age 12. There is plenty of hype around this wunderkind, but not as much as one would expect, given the extreme skill it takes to create what he creates. As I waited in the Beax Arts building on Paris's left bank for the show to begin, I got a taste of what Lourenco is capable of. Several of the organizers--either his personal PRs or sales people--were wearing Fall 2010 Lourenco creations. In camel and black, the heavy wool pieces were made of blocks of fabrics that looked as though they had been fused together, some molded into curvy pleats.
Swarovski just released the list of shows it'll be sponsoring for Spring 2011. The roster is long, but distinguished: Prabal Gurung Juan Carlos Obando Erdem GILES Marios Schwab Richard Nicoll Mark Fast JW Anderson Holly Fulton Henry Holland Michael van der Ham Louise Goldin What does a Swarovski sponsorship afford designers?