Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011: The Incredible Beauty of Lightness
Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS--Light, airy, heavenly, and ethereal are usually not words used to describe a fall/winter collection, but they were the precise words to utter about the Givenchy fall 2011 haute couture by Riccardo Tisci. It was presented last night at the spacious Hôtel d’Evreux on Place Vendôme, where two models wore long white sleeveless gowns, with small pieces of lace forming floral patterns. Each of the Givenchy couture presentations since fall 2010 have been a hard lesson in couture techniques, and this collection was no exception. The 10 looks divided into three rooms--Angels, Bird of Paradise and Clouds--were truly remarkable.
Bouchra Jarrar Couture Fall 2011: Quiet Chic
Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS--Yesterday, prior to the anticipated Dior show, far from the madding crowd of fashion frenzy, Bouchra Jarrar presented her fourth collection with a show at the reception hallways of the sumptuous Théatre de l’Europe. Built in 1779, it's now one of France’s six national theaters. Her collection--17 looks mostly in light grey, deep blue, and black--featured jackets with sharp v-neck lapels, crisp tropical wool pants, a navy wool v-neck blazer with side closure, a strapless dress fitted to the body, and a hand knit zippered vest made of blue and grey interwoven yarns--distilled the essence of couture: Perfectly made clothes without the needs for a single ball gown.
Dior Haute Couture Fall 2011: Heritage and the Future
Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS--An explosion of green and blue lights--as well as a thunderous roar of music--signaled the start of the Dior fall couture show yesterday afternoon. Taking place inside a small tent at the garden of the Musée Rodin, the show officially opened Paris fall couture season. The streamlined stage décor--a simple sculpture by set designer Michael Howell, rather than a full on mise en scène like a maritime port or a tulip garden--was the first sign of a sharp break from the past. Indeed, the house was staging its first couture show without longtime designer John Galliano. But that was not all that had changed.
Would You Rather...? The Cat As The Hat Edition
There are a lot of over-the-top head pieces in this world, most of them living on the head of Anna Dello Russo, but hats that looks like cats are certainly a new breed of toppers. Would you rather sport Anna Sui's realistic looking cat hat or PPQ's stylized version?
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The Best Shoes of Spring/Summer 2011
Forget diamonds--shoes are a girl's best friend. The SS11 runways were full of new "best friends" for shoe addicts everywhere. From Alexander McQueen's and Rodarte's sculpted wedges to Calvin Klein's lucite and wood stilettos, there's something for every girl, even sneakers (from Giles and Yohji Yamamoto, of course)! Trying to pick a favorite may cost you hours, so why not just love them all? Click through to see the best of the best shoes from the Spring runways!
Chanel Could Sue You For Using The Word 'Chanel' As An Adjective To Describe Someone Else's Designs
We are in the middle of fashion month and reams and gigabytes have been written about the various collections that stomped down runways. Apparently Chanel has got its interlocking-C embossed undies in a bunch about writers and editors using its name as a descriptor for other designers’ collections. So the company took out an entire back page ad in WWD yesterday to tell us all off entreat us:
The Twentyten Is Insane, In The Best Possible Way
I’ve seen a lot of shows this week, mostly established designers with a known aesthetic. I’m always excited to see what they produce, but that element of surprise isn’t always there. The Twentyten is a relatively new label, but I suspect name recognition won’t be a problem for them much longer. Jeff Dodd, David J. Krause, and Nina Zilka are the designers behind the label, and they all met as students in the Pratt Institute’s fashion design program. The name is a reference to their graduation year. This is their fourth collection together, and their first as members of the Pratt Design Incubator for Sustainable Innovation. The Incubator’s mission is to “link sustainability to enterprise.” The Twentyten designers are the first fashion designers to be members (the Incubator is for all design disciplines.) They don’t get financial support, but they get invaluable services such as assistance with business plans and exhibition space, like the open sunny loft overlooking the Hudson where they displayed their wares. The designers make everything locally in NY’s Garment Center, and several of their pieces are made from scrap leather and organic bamboo. When I read the inspiration for the collection, I was slightly worried that this was going to be a beautiful yet unwearable, artsy mess. The collection was based on a “fictional female character and her descent into madness.” (Quite appropriate for the last few days of fashion week.) What I saw when I walked in, however, was an utterly hip and wearable collection of tops, pants, and dresses. The vibe is definitely downtown, but I live uptown and I wanted a good chunk of this collection.
I was reasonably sure when I walked into the Alice + Olivia presentation that I wouldn’t be seeing much white minimalism. I was correct. Gold glitter covered every surface, and Stacey Bendet was dressed in a silver twinkling bolero, black sparkly beaded dress, and bejeweled hair piece. Even her eyelids were glittery. I got to chat with her for a few minutes, feeling quite bland in my black and grey ensemble. Thank goodness my earrings were sparkly. Fashionista: So tell me about the collection: Stacey Bendet: The whole concept of the show was supposed to be this sort of timeless travel. The feel is a mix of '50s, '60s, '70s and I wanted everything to be mixed and matched in a way that it all felt fresh, but each piece you’re not sure when it came from. It’s very cool and detailed and classic, and I want you to be able to pick it up and wear it ten years from now.
William Tempest’s Siren Song Works Its Spell
If you don’t know William Tempest, you soon will. He’s a baby-faced 24-year-old Englishman with an amazing pedigree (stints at Giles Deacon and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac) who already counts Emma Watson, Kate Moss, and Victoria Beckham as fans. After his first collection debuted three seasons ago, he was compared to a young McQueen. This is his first season showing in New York. I asked him what he found different about showing in New York vs. London and he told me, “The energy’s just really different. I was excited to do a presentation here so that I could actually meet editors and buyers in person.” He’ll also be showing in Milan this season. His clothes are clearly ready for their international close-up.
Edun Finds Its Footing, Even If Some of the Models Couldn’t
Under some train tracks in an outside alley in Chelsea, Sharon Wauchob debuted her first collection for Edun. Edun is, of course, the eco-label founded by Ali Hewson and her famous husband. You know who it is. He sings in a band. He wasn’t there. (Gavin Rossdale was, however.) Edun has been plagued by some inconsistency issues since its inception in 2005. After a big welcome from retailers in the beginning, the Wall Street Journal recently reported that Edun was carried at only 67 stores worldwide, down from hundreds at its heyday in 2006. The company floundered further after creative director Rogan Gregory left in 2007 and the industry as a whole was hit by the recession. Enter LVMH, who purchased 49% of the company in 2009. Sharon Wauchob was hired as creative director, and most of the company’s production was moved to China after retailers complained about the quality of the garments coming from African facilities. Ali told the WSJ, “It’s a fashion company. That needs to be first and foremost.” Some t-shirts, denim, and jewelry will still be produced in Africa, and the company is hoping to increase African production in the future.