Every fashion week, we look for new and exciting trends from the runways to guide us into the next season. This year is no different: We've seen mon
The term "American sportswear" is being taken quite literally this week with many designers churning out collections that are, well, sporty. The clothes not only channel the sporty lifestyle, but the gear as well, which is why mesh is having a moment. Alexander Wang's first five exits were completely covered in it. Meanwhile, the fabric hasn't been limited to just clothing. Those sleek ponytails at Donna Karan? Wrapped in mesh, of course.
Silk button downs. Vintage belts. And short-sleeved army jackets. These are the pieces we want for spring, and sure enough Madewell is offering them up in an irresistible fashion. "We [topped the skirts] with jackets so it all looked easier," the brand's creative director, Kin Ying Lee, told me at this morning's presentation. The vacation-inspired tees--remnants of those 1970s "Virginia is for Lovers" souvenirs--also made the soft, pretty florals and silks look less precious. Several of the belts used to tie the outfits together were vintage, and will be available in select Madewell stores.
It's hard not to love Rachel Antonoff. From her playful presentations to her adorable clothes, Rachel Antonoff brings a unique joy to the fashion scene. That's why I was overjoyed when, at Rachel's SS11 presentation, I heard she was collaborating with Bass, maker of my loyal and trusted loafers. Models wore a selection of the styles at the presentation, but now we've got the entire lookbook, and it's a stunner. From high-top boat shoes to floral oxfords, the Bass Hearts Rachel Antonoff collaboration has something for everyone. The Alice perforated oxford complete with a bow are my favorites, but it's a close call with the Click through to see the whole Bass Hearts Rachel Antonoff lookbook and pick your favorite pair.
J.Crew rarely fails to delight us, and their women's collection for Spring 2011 is no different. Creative director/president Jenna Lyons and women's lead designer Marissa Webb imagined a look that was decidedly spring--lots of short suits, nautical sweaters, and chambray--but also decidedly cool. There was much more of a tomboy feel to this collection than I'm used to from J.Crew, and that's a good thing. And it seems that they also used Nars Heat Wave lipstick on the models--one of my favorites. J'adore. Click through to view the complete collection.
A game some of my fashion friends and I like to play is "What Happened to American Apparel?" That symbol of the aughts' stock is currently trading at just over one dollar, one fifteenth of its 2007 high. And there are a number of reasons why: poor management, spotty trend spotting, over-expansion, lack of investor confidence. Another reason is J. Crew. American Apparel presented a unique challenge to the market, and while Gap kept making the same old crap and used the same old advertising, J.Crew took a different route and went up-market. It started looking for a more sophisticated customer, constructing tailored, comfortable menswear that didn’t look or feel like each item was just one of hundreds of thousands that had come off the line.
Stepping into Brood's Spring 2011 presentation was like stepping into an elite club where only the fashion industries heavy-hitters were welcome. Sally Singer, Vera Wang, Zac Posen, and Mario Grauso were all in attendance. Honestly, nothing less should have been expected. After all, Brood is is the brainchild of Serkan Sarier, a graduate from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp--one of the most prestigious fashion schools in the world. Some notable grads of the Royal Academy include Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, and Martin Margiela, so you can imagine what editors expect from an Antwerp scholar.
Last week, we stopped by the Decades Denim showroom to meet Cameron Silver and see how his collection had evolved since last season’s launch. Holiday 2010 and Spring 2011 were both on display, allowing us to witness the line’s progression from a few basic denim pieces to a nearly full-fledged collection. Some vintage inspiration is to be expected from the owner of an L.A. vintage mecca and, naturally, Cameron chose the denim-crazed seventies. The influence is subtle in both collections. Holiday pant styles include basics like a pocketless skinny jean, a straight leg, a boot cut, and a jean legging. There are also more frivolous options like a cropped cigarette jean, a jodpur-seam jean legging and a really great-looking cropped cargo jean. There were also a few dressier options like a trouser, a velvet skinny jean and my favorite, a tuxedo pant with a rounded hem that is a bit shorter in the front to reveal a great pair of shoes. The washes available include indigo, light blue, white, black and my favorite, Ox Blood, a deep bordeaux red. Every pair is clean and timeless--devoid of distressing and obnoxious logos. It all has the kind of dressed-down glamor that L.A. is known for, but also definitely has a place in a New Yorker’s wardrobe.
We met designer Hillary Taymour four months ago and proclaimed her eco-friendly handbag line Collina Strada a Label to Watch. Seriously, if you're thinking of jumping on the backpack trend, now is the time do it and Hilary makes the cutest ones. She told us then that her next collection was going to be "insane" and if by that she meant insanely awesome, she wasn't lying. Spring 2011 builds upon signature unique pieces that strike a perfect balance of vintage and modern, expanded into bolder shapes and colors. New pieces we love include a cross-body harness, a bike bag and an adorable mini backpack.
We popped by Coach’s charming West Village “legacy” boutique to preview the Spring 2011 collection. There were enough handbags, shoes and other accessories to fill the entire store and we were pleased to find a lot of things we actually liked. The collection subtly indicated a return to simplicity. There was nary a monogram print to be found. While there was plenty to satisfy lovers of the ultra-girly and overly embellished, the more stripped down options showcased what we consider to be Coach’s best qualities--good craftsmanship, quality materials and timeless shapes. (The new Poppy collection, inspired by Coach’s new scent, occupies the former category.) My favorites were a large navy leather tote and a slouchy beige drawstring bag.
Bruce, a designer line started in 1998 by Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli, has been pretty under-the-radar as of late. The New York-based line won the coveted CFDA Perry Ellis Award for Womenswear in 2001, took a break from 2004 to 2007 and have kept things pretty low key ever since. Right now, they are smartly focusing on their lower-priced line Bruce II, which can be found in cool Williamsburg boutiques like Bird and Jumelle and online at La Garconne. Yesterday, we stopped by their modest studio in Chinatown to check out Spring '11 and it did not disappoint.
Forget diamonds--shoes are a girl's best friend. The SS11 runways were full of new "best friends" for shoe addicts everywhere. From Alexander McQueen's and Rodarte's sculpted wedges to Calvin Klein's lucite and wood stilettos, there's something for every girl, even sneakers (from Giles and Yohji Yamamoto, of course)! Trying to pick a favorite may cost you hours, so why not just love them all? Click through to see the best of the best shoes from the Spring runways!
We at Fashionista don't hide our love of Urban Outfitters' designer collaborations and this one by Grey Ant has always been one of our favorites. The pieces are always flattering and easy to wear with interesting details that are rare for such a low price point. Spring '11 is full of great body-con skirts and dresses, super cute fairisle-meets-tribal prints, sheer white cotton shirts, and simple cropped pants. It's sporty yet feminine and full of soft cottons and linens, which we're crazy about for next spring. Seriously, is it March yet?
The big beauty story on the S/S 2011 New York runways was lip color. Or rather, the lack thereof. From the heavy hitters to the young upstarts, design
You sort of know what to expect from Marc by Marc (cheerful, fun, girly), Phillip Lim (sleek, tailored, the clothes I want to wear), and Anna Sui ('70s inspired, kooky, playful), but that is not to say that these designers don't put out great collections season after season. There's something comforting, too, in knowing that when you go to see any of these designers, you know you're in for a good show. And Spring/Summer 2011 was no exception. We've also included our final menswear review of George McCracken's show in this, our final review roundup from New York Fashion Week.
With William Eggleston's photographs and a clothespin silk print as starting points, Karen Walker presented another fantastic collection for SS11. Looking at the beauty of mundane objects, Walker created effortless, wearable looks that made even the grouchiest New Yorker wish for summer's breezy days. From sherbet colored, pajama inspired ensembles to gray tees with pop-colored full skirts, every look was uplifting. The feeling was of the '60s, but not the uptown stuff you're used to seeing on Mad Men; Walker's looks were better suited for weekends bonfires set to Pet Sounds and Revolver.
NYFW came to a close with two immaculate collections by two of New York's most important and relevant designers, Narciso Rodriguez and Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein. Both designers went back to their roots for SS11. Cut was the star of each collection, each reworking minimalism in a season where it seems like everyone is striving to be the next Helmut Lang. But Rodriguez and Costa are anything but followers. Each has such a strong, focused voice--their collections stood out from the whitewashed masses like rays of light.
Oscar de la Renta S/S 2011 Cheat Sheet: -a decadent garden party -classic silhouettes -silk faille -evening gloves, hair bows, and kitten heels -lime green, light pink, glamorous black -playful appliques -‘50s feel; modern aesthetic From a seat a few rows back from the catwalk it’s apparent: Oscar de la Renta is a man apart. The designer offered a fashion week finale far from the rush of the Lincoln Center tent. The celebs that filled his front row were top-tier editors (with a single flashbulb celebrity exception in SJP) and the mood was relaxed. The start: drums, Spanish guitar, hair in big buns and silk. Pantsuits in swinging silk, tightly belted, and day dresses were in wide, elegant plaid or floral patterns. But the night looks were the most striking. The luxury of seasons past remained, of course, with a playful infusion of color and textures (lime green, pink, red and yellow appliquéd carnations, lace and sequins). In all their complicated construction with silk chiffon ruffles, floral embroidery and organza volume, they seemed lighthearted and youthful, especially when set to the music of the '50s.
Alexa Chung and musician Diane Birch stole the show at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Diane Kruger Looked amazing in Prabal Gurung, one of our favorite collections of the week. Rachel Bilson rocked Suno, one of our Fashionista 15. And Vogue cover girl Carey Mulligan looked lovely in Elie Saab in Toronto and can definitely hold her own amongst the fashion week crowd.
The bold-face names in American design always show at the end of New York Fashion Week: Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Isaac Mizrahi, and the newest memb