Brian Wolk

This morning's Ruffian show started off with a sartorial bang as Siri Tollerod, clad in a slick patent leather blazer and skintight satin pants, stepped out to a pulsating disco-like beat. There's no question that designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais know their way around a Victorian-style suit, so it was a smart decision to show a collection heavy on jackets and trousers. But as for the heavy dose of patent that permeated the line, we weren't so sure about the overall effect. Megawatt shine can work well in small amounts--covering a coat's lapel or trimming a pocket, say--but skinny pants cut from the plastick-y material fell flat here. We did love the slouchy, cuffed, cropped trousers shown with several looks, however, and there were some lovely double-breasted coats, neat jackets, and tulip skirts in a "Prince of Wales" houndstooth.