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Homepage photo: Gilbert Flores/WWD via Getty Images

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“Glenn Martens’ contribution to Diesel has been extraordinary,” said Rosso in the press release. “Through his vision, talent and commitment, he has transformed the way the brand is perceived, forging a strong connection with younger generations and creating a solid foundation for its future. He brought Diesel back to the centre [sic] of the global fashion conversation while preserving the openness, energy and accessibility that have always distinguished us. We are deeply grateful for everything he has achieved.” 

Martens’ provocative campaigns helped push the brand beyond its denim-focused roots and back into the broader fashion conversation — a sensibility that carried through to the teaser for his final Spring 2027 show, posted on his and the brand’s Instagram, which features a model baring their backside on foggy glass.

Per the press release, Diesel will announce the next chapter of its creative leadership in due course, leaving unanswered the question of who will inherit the momentum Martens has generated over the past six years.

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At Le Café Louis Vuitton, the French fashion house turns snacking into a luxury via truffle eggs and caviar (even down to monogrammed butter). The Beekman, a stunning, historic hotel in Lower Manhattan, served as a relaxing refuge on busy days. As for this season’s standout show locations, Carolina Herrera celebrated its 45th anniversary at the opulent David H. Koch Theater and Emily Dawn Long screened her Spring 2027 short film in Chinatown’s Bridges.

Ahead, see all of our editors’ favorite fashion week haunts from the Spring 2027 season.

The Beekman, a Thompson Hotel

“This was my second time staying at The Beekman for NYFW, but I was no less blown away by how beautiful this landmark property is. From the famous atrium, to the antique furnishings, every detail is aesthetically perfect, but not at the expense of comfort. The accommodations, which are very spacious for NYC, feel more like chic apartments than hotel rooms. It’s just the perfect relaxing atmosphere after a chaotic day of shows — I genuinely never wanted to leave!” —Dhani Mau, Editor-in-Chief

(Disclosure: The hotel provided a complimentary stay as part of an editorial partnership with Fashionista.)

Barlume

“Team Fashionista kicked off NYFW with a dinner at Barlume, where we loved the chic, spacious atmosphere and Mediterranean menu (we all ordered pasta). It was a cozy space for our remote team to get a leisurely proper IRL catch up — espresso martini tower included.” —Steph Saltzman, Beauty & Style Director

(Disclosure: The restaurant provided a complimentary meal for Fashionista editors.)

Le Café Louis Vuitton

“I’ve had my eye on Louis Vuitton’s café since it opened two years ago, but never really had an excuse to try it while visiting. That is, until Dhani and I went to NYC for Fashion Week and got together with Steph for a spread of LV logo-emblazoned French butter, ravioli, waffle with caviar and chocolate cake. Everything is obviously very aesthetically pleasing, but more delicious than I was expecting for a tourist spot. Also: The surprisingly great iced matcha lattes kept our energy up for the week.” —Elizabeth Denton, Deputy Content Editor

(Disclosure: The restaurant provided a complimentary meal for Fashionista editors.)

Bridges

“Emily Dawn Long’s debut fashion week event brought me to a bustling part of Chinatown near the Manhattan Bridge, where the beautifully designed and Michelin-rated Bridges typically serves up refined, French-inspired dishes. In this instance, we mingled with lemonade and popcorn and screened Long’s Spring 2027 short film in a back room. It was delightful, but I can’t wait to go back for a meal.” —Dhani

Straker’s

“A Net-a-Porter party brought me and Steph to this narrow bar/restaurant — a London export apparently — in what used to be the beloved restaurant Lucky Strike. I can’t attest to the food as there wasn’t much available, but I did have quite literally the best spicy margarita I’ve ever tasted.” —Dhani

RPZL

“I hate washing and styling my hair when I travel because I don’t have all my products and tools. What did I do before the Dyson Airwrap? I’m useless! Thankfully, RPZL invited me in for its pre-NYFW event, and I got the full wash-blowout-and-curl treatment that lasted for days, even in the heat and humidity. I used to go to the salon’s original location in Flatiron when I was a young beauty editor in 2013, and I’m glad to see it’s still around — and growing.” —Liz

Fanelli Café

“It had been years since I’d been to Fanelli’s, a classic Italian restaurant two blocks from the Fashionista office, and it’s evolved a bit — for the better, with ample outdoor seating and a fun, slightly younger crowd that feels more ‘in-the-know local’ than ‘SoHo tourist.’ Just be very careful with the poured-to-the-brim dirty martinis, which are dangerously good.” —Dhani

Iconic Magazines

“I miss a lot about NYC, but easy access to newspapers and magazines via cute indie sellers is a big one. There aren’t as many spots as there were in the 2010s, but the 13-year-old Iconic Magazines is thankfully still around. I hit up the Lower East Side location near my hotel and stocked up on publications you can’t find just anywhere. I spent too much money, but hey, I’m supporting my industry, right?” —Liz

David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center

“This theater at Lincoln Center is considered by many to be among New York City’s most beautiful. The opulent venue — which the Carolina Herrera team filled with thousands of yellow tulips, reminiscent to Park Ave. in the spring — served as a stunning background for Wes Gordon’s beautiful 45th anniversary collection.” —Steph

Studio 54

“Studio 54 — an iconic NYC institution and disco-era time capsule — now doubles as the venue for Broadway’s ‘The Rocky Horror Show,'”‘ which I got the chance to see with beauty brand Ogee for a mid-NYFW runway break. Although I wasn’t brushing shoulders with Diana Ross or Liza Minnelli, the theater’s glamorous energy feels right at home for the raucous cast of otherworldly beings.” —Catie Pusateri, Associate Editor

Sartiano’s

“I’ve been pretty out of the NYC party scene in recent years, so I didn’t know what to expect when going to Sartiano’s, the restaurant below The Mercer Hotel, for Marc Jacobs Beauty’s NYFW party. While I can’t say much about the food — there weren’t many vegetarian passed apps for me to try — I can see why the restaurant has become a bit of a hot spot for brands since it took over the Mercer Kitchen space. The interiors give that moody, sexy, old-world vibe that a party should have — especially with beauty products scattered around. We even found our way downstairs through a wine cellar (a real one? Unsure!) which led to a speakeasy area with a stripper pole. I need to go back and actually eat next time.” —Liz

The Spa at The Hotel Chelsea

“I’ve been fortunate to have experienced many New York City spas, and The Hotel Chelsea‘s is one of my all-time favorites. It’s cozy, charming and quiet, with an outdoor terrace, fireplace and little snacks on offer before you go in for a treatment. It’s luxurious without being stuffy or uptight (like some other fancy spas in the city) and the perfect place to recover from NYFW, when all I feel like doing is sitting in a dark room by myself for a week. (YSL Beauty hosted editors there on Thursday, may the Fashion Week Goddesses bless them.) You can’t go wrong with just about any treatment, but I’m a deep tissue massage girl all the way.” —Steph

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PETA Protesters Crash H&M’s London Fashion Show

H&M’s London runway show was disrupted on Thursday night by three PETA protesters objecting to the use of wool, the latest in a string of demonstrations that hit COS’ New York show the week before. Unlike the protest at COS, security let the protesters exit the runway without physical contact. The show went on to debut H&M’s collaboration with Nick Knight and ShowStudio, featuring AI-generated visuals that turned live photos of models into moving painted backdrops. {WWD/paywalled}

Mbappé Leaves Nike for On as It Expands Into Soccer

On is expanding into soccer, signing Kylian Mbappé away from Nike and hiring former French soccer player Thierry Henry as its director of football. The move marks the Swiss sportswear brand’s push into a new category as growth in its core running business slows and investors question expansion within the category. “Our ambition is to bring On’s approach to the pitch, the pavement and the runway – connecting elite performance with the culture that surrounds the game,” Founder and Co-CEO David Allemann said in a statement. {On; Business of Fashion/paywalled}

LVMH Signed an Agreement To Buy Hermès Heir’s Shares

In a June court filing, LVMH denied trying to buy Hermès shares from heir Nicolas Puech, but legal documents show the company signed a 2002 agreement to purchase Puech’s shares, Reuters reported. Records also show LVMH and its chairman’s family holding company paid Eric Freymond’s wealth management firm (Puech’s late financial adviser) at least $20 million between 2001 and 2009. Puech says his 6% stake in Hermès, worth an estimated $10 billion today, vanished without his knowledge, and he is suing LVMH and Chairman Bernard Arnault, along with companies affiliated ​with Freymond, for €14 billion ($16 billion) in damages. {Reuters}

Half Magic Beauty Raises Series A

Half Magic Beauty, the color cosmetics brand founded by “Euphoria” makeup artist Donni Davy, has raised a Series A round led by Point King Capital, with existing backers A24, Access Industries and ACG also participating. The funding will support the brand’s retail expansion with partners like Ulta, Sephora U.K. and Mecca, plus new product categories and hiring, as it eyes further growth in Australia, New Zealand and Europe. {WWD/paywalled}

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About the Role
This internship offers a behind-the-scenes look at the world of celebrity, red carpet, and editorial styling. The pace is fast and ever-changing, so we’re seeking individuals who are organized, adaptable, and enthusiastic about fashion. Candidates should bring initiative, attention to detail, and a positive, solutions-oriented attitude. Please note that some evenings and weekends may be required.

Responsibilities
● Coordinate sample pulls and returns with showrooms and PR teams
● Steam, prep, and pack garments for set days
● Provide on-set support and assist with fittings
● Manage studio organization and inventory, including logging items in and out
● Run errands to showrooms and PR offices
● Transport wardrobe to and from fittings, shoots, and events
● Support on clothing sourcing

Requirements
● Based in Los Angeles with reliable transportation
● Available 3–5 days per week
● Extremely organized, punctual, and professional
● Strong sense of discretion and trustworthiness
● Comfortable working in a fast-paced environment with shifting priorities
● Flexible, dedicated, and genuinely passionate about fashion and styling

How to Apply
Email your resume and weekly availability to Jenna Biersch: assistant1@chloeandchenelle.com.

chloeandchenelle.com
@chloeandchenelle

For our Weekly Drop Watch column, Fashionista scours the market to curate the most noteworthy releases from our favorite fashion and beauty brands. Keep scrolling for this week’s highlights.

Fashion Launches

Reformation x Olivia Jade

Reformation partnered with Olivia Jade for its new “Good Sport” campaign and collection. “People have been studying Olivia’s outfits for a while, so we figured it was time she gave everyone a lesson in dressing for sport,” read press materials. The lineup includes preppy, academic-themed items (including a particularly cheeky “College” crew sweatshirt, $128, shown on Jade in the above image). Other items include a shoulder bag, belted denim jacket and scoop-neck cashmere sweater. The brand will also be donating 100% of net proceeds from the limited-edition College Crew to YES Scholars, a nonprofit that expands college access and opportunities for promising students from
 under-resourced communities. Shop the collection at thereformation.com.

Ganni x Hunter

Ganni teamed up with Hunter for the first time to create a limited-edition collaboration that “blends Hunter’s British legacy in weather-ready design with Ganni’s joyful Copenhagen spirit,” per a press release. The collaboration includes three waterproof ponchos, coordinating rain hats, a protective poncho cover for the Ganni Bou bag, tall and Chelsea-style Wellington boots and an umbrella adorned with Ganni’s signature leopard print. Prices range from $150 to $440. Shop the collection at ganni.com.

Clarks x Damson Madder

Footwear brand Clarks Originals partnered with Damson Madder on a capsule collection featuring two of the former brand’s signature silhouettes, with a twist from the latter company. The Nomad Mary Jane Mule comes in chocolate brown and retails for $220, while the Wallabee Lace Up Shoe in red retails for $200. The collab also includes a striped rugby sock for $40. Shop them all at damsonmadder.com.

Rixo Fall 2026

Rixo dropped its Fall 2026 collection this week, marking “a significant evolution for the brand, expanding its proposition beyond the printed dress and into a more complete lifestyle wardrobe,” as described in a press release. With the launch of outerwear, knitwear, separates and accessories, Rixo’s latest offering has already been so popular that several of the coats have racked up 1,000 pre-order sign-ups. Rixo Fall 2026 will continue to roll out with further drops following in October and November. Shop the September drop at rixolondon.com.

Leset Fall 2026 Footwear

Leset uneviled its Fall 2026 shoe collection, comprising three styles “designed to serve as the foundation of a wardrobe.” Made in Italy, the footwear lineup includes the Romy Mule in Chocolate Caribbean ($480, shown above), Sonny Slip On in Amaranth Multi Floral ($590) and Rose Mary Jane in Midnight ($480). Shop them at leset.com.

The Rosé by Sami Miró

Designer Sami Miró launched The Róse by Sami Miró in partnership with Pacsun, across the retailer’s 50 brick-and-mortar stores and online. The expansive lineup of separates features basics like bralettes, T-shirts, low-rise jeans, sweatpants and cropped hoodies alongside a host of going out tops and mini skirts. Priced from $30 to $100, all of the pieces are available now at pacsun.com.

Staud’s Maud Bag Collection

Staud introduced its Maude bag collection, a silhouette that’s “designed to move effortlessly through every moment, blending quintessential Staud design details — including our iconic curved handles and concealed phone pocket — with timeless silhouettes.” The bag comes in four styles: Maude Carryall, Maude Tote, Maude Satchel and Maude Shoulder, each available in a variety of sizes and colorways. Priced from $395 to $850, the Maude bag is available now at staud.clothing.

Beauty Launches

New Beauty Brand Carte Blanche

Carte Blanche, a new beauty brand from Saie Beauty veterans Geri Hirsch and Sarah Tallman, launched exclusively with Violet Grey on Thursday. The brand “raises the standard for hybrid beauty by combining clinically proven skin care with high-performance makeup through a narrow-and-deep hero product strategy,” according to a press release. “Rather than launching dozens of SKUs, the brand is introducing products designed to become everyday essentials, delivering immediate cosmetic payoff while actively improving skin over time.” At launch, Carte Blanche introduced only one SKU: Multi-Hyphenate Brightening Skin Tint Mineral SPF 35, a “next-generation complexion product that reimagines what a skin tint can be.” The tinted formula features mineral sunscreen, exosomes, vitamin C and other antioxidants for a multi-targeted treatment/cosmetic hybrid. Shop it in eight shades at violetgrey.com.

Ogee’s New Liquid Eye Shadow

Beauty brand Ogee introduced its new Lid Sculpt Liquid Eye Shadow ($32) this week. A “skin-care-infused liquid-to-powder formula designed to deliver luminous, crease-resistant color while visibly smoothing the look of the eyelids,” the product comes in 10 “mineral-inspired” metallic shades. Shop them all at ogee.com and bluemercury.com.

Neutrogena’s New Bemotrizinol (BMT) Sunscreen

Neutrogena launched its first bemotrizinol (BMT) sunscreen, Bemotrizinol (BMT), Ultra Sheer Daily Face Sunscreen SPF 60 ($17) this week, making it the first U.S. brand to bring a formula to market with the breakthrough sun filter that was recently approved by the FDA. The “weightless, invisible” formula is supposedly “50% lighter on skin than leading sunscreens, non-greasy and doesn’t leave a residue or sticky feeling, layering well under makeup.” Shop it at amazon.com.

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Some trends were difficult to pin down this time, which speaks to how varied (and stacked) the New York schedule has become, and perhaps the increasingly individualized evolution of personal style in general. But there were some clear standouts: Sweaters and scarves moved from our shoulders to our waists; a winner was chosen in the battle of capris vs. culottes; primary and diluted colors all found their place and traditional details like buttons and symmetrical sleeves were rendered irrelevant.

Scroll through the galleries below for nine NYFW trends you should definitely know about.

Low Tied

For too many seasons to count, the practice of artfully tying a clothing item — usually a sweater or a scarf — around models' shoulders was every designer's go-to runway styling trick. The preppy trend has finally loosened its grip and, for Spring 2027, these items — suit jackets at Coach, silk shirts at Cult Gaia, light knits at Tibi and fringe scarves at Heirlome — are instead being styled around models' waists. It feels more down to down-to-earth (literally and figuratively).

Bras Out

New York designers proposed a solution to something showgoers dealt without throughout the week: overheating and sweating under our clothes. The answer: just leave your blouses, jackets and cardigans wide open. (Were buttons, like walkable shoes, in short supply?) But make sure you have a really pretty (or outfit-matching) bra on underneath.

Primary Source

Many designers went back to the literal basics when it came to choosing their Spring 2027 color palettes: Primary colors — red, yellow and blue, in their purest forms — were all over the runways, underscoring the Americana vibes at Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, and bringing a playful feel to TWP and Sergio Hudson. "Luminous Blue," the 2027 color of the year, was especially popular.

Sheer-Review

It's official: The naked skirt is the new naked dress. There's something so fun and subversive about pairing an otherwise conservative outfit with a see-through skirt, as seen at Calvin Klein, Eckhaus Latta, Brandon Maxwell and Thom Browne. That said, wearing revealing separates from head to toe is also an option; see: Aknvas, Prabal Gurung and Vettese.

Wearing Thin

The resurgence of long, skinny, purely decorative scarves, largely popularized in the 2000s boho-chic era, continues into Spring 2027. They do put excess fabric to good use, and given their size, they shouldn't cost too much at retail. (Recession indicator?)

Good as Marigold

Spring 2027's most overwhelmingly popular color was marigold: It felt like the floral orange-y yellow was popping up at every runway, from Ashlyn and Emily Dawn Long, to Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors — and it's not even a "color of the year" ...yet.

Right to Bare Arm

One of Spring 2027's least straightforward trends involved deliberate attempts to subvert the traditional two-sleeve (or -strap) concept we've come to expect from clothing. At Collina Strada, Cult Gaia, Rio and 6397, models walked the runway looking liked they'd begun the process of removing their sweater and just decided to stop with one arm out. Carolina Herrera achieved the cardigan equivalent of whatever that was. Elsewhere — Zankov, Ashlyn, Grace Ling and others — garments were designed to keep one arm (or at least part of it) free and bare, while clothing the other. Good luck with hangers!

Modern Mauvel

For whatever reason, it's rare to encounter a pink-free collection these days; this season, several designers seemed unable to decide what shade of pink to go with, so perhaps they mixed them all together to create an assortment of muted, dusty mauves.

Big 'Lottes

Capris and culottes are going neck-and-neck (calf-and-calf?) for the title of fashion's favorite cropped pant silhouette, and judging by the New York collections, culottes may be winning. The elongated shorts came in all shapes in sizes: sleek and tailored at Fforme and Calvin Klein, big and baggy at Area and Collina Strada, and even sequined at Patbo and Advisry.

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After season upon season of teeny bags that barely fit a lip gloss, let alone a laptop, we’re here to report that luxuriously capacious bags are officially making a triumphant return, and we couldn’t be more pleased. Social media and the fashion crowd have fully endorsed the roomy tote, and it’s not difficult to see why everyone has been so obsessed: Bags that are stylish and functional just make sense.

While it’s fair to assume a handbag that fits a laptop, tablet, reusable water bottle, makeup case, notebook and every other busy-girl essential is going to be a bulky, unwieldy outfit-ruiner, Charles & Keith has accessories figured out. So of course, the Singapore-based brand cracked the code on making roomy bags that are actually chic.

A recent viral TikTok video featuring the Charles & Keith’s Calla Tote proved just how possible it is to meld form and function in an elevated accessory that’s perfectly on-trend. It even spurred waitlists for the bag’s next colorway drop. (Stone Grey Suede? Yes, please.)

@ctinefg

Replying to @sofia.zxr ok but the calla tote bag actually fits a lot 🤨 for reference I have a 13 inch MacBook Pro!! @CHARLESKEITHOFFICIAL code COMAMBAU15-RG6DI32K3H to save 15% 💗 #charleskeithcommunity #imwithcharleskeith #corporategirlies #workbag #unibag

♬ original sound – chrissy

The label also recently expanded its oversized bags offering with the introduction of the Aislin Tote, a versatile shoulder bag that can also be slung cross-body for a modern, laid-back look. Despite its sophisticated exterior, three wearable colorways and easy-yet-polished aesthetic, the Aislin isn’t just about looks. It’s also, in fact, a carryall that – like its aforementioned Charles & Keith sister, the Calla — can accommodate, well, all you could possibly want to carry.

Another new addition to the brand’s spacious bag lineup is the Large Ginerva Tote, a softly structured, vintage-y silhouette that’s equal parts “cool girl” and “chic professional.” With a zip closure, short double handles and adjustable, detachable shoulder strap, it’s the perfect bring-with-you-everywhere bag.

View the 2 images of this gallery on the original article

With back to school season and RTO in full swing, Charles & Keith’s accessories are ready to get you through everything fall has in store. See (and shop!) the brand’s most stylish, waitlist-worthy handbag styles below.

Charles & Keith Large Ginerva Tote Bag, $149, available here

Charles & Keith Aislin Hobo Bag in Pecan Brown, $139, available here

Charles & Keith Aislin Hobo Bag in Black, $139, available here

Charles & Keith XL Calla Tote Bag in Stone Grey, $159, available here

The Palisades Village location came first because of the sense of community in the area post-Jan. 2025 fires. (Fashionista heard this from Leset’s neighbor Xirena, too.) “We’ve been incredibly intentional about retail and wanted to make sure we were opening stores in places where we could really become part of the community, rather than just adding doors for the sake of growth,” Chemla said over email.

“Palisades Village felt especially right because it has this intimate, neighborhood quality that I love,” she continued. “I wanted the store to feel warm, considered and easy, and to create a place where our customer could come in often, discover something new and feel at home.” In addition to Xirena, Misa, A.L.C. and Anine Bing are also nearby.

The store’s intimate footprint (read: pretty small space) and edited-down merchandise are meant to put the focus on the clothes and feel like a “dream closet.” It was designed by Phoebe Little, who also led the design of the brand’s NYC store. The assortment includes the core wardrobe staples (including the popular The Margo tee and its many iterations), alongside the newest seasonal collection, per press materials.

One of the more distinctive details of the store is the curtain framing the storefront. When it’s drawn closed each evening and opened each morning, it adds a residential touch to the space. That cozy feeling is central to how Chemla envisions Leset stores, but don’t expect each new location to be the same style.

“West Hollywood will be our second store in L.A., and while it will have its own identity, there are certain elements that will carry through all of our stores,” she said. “I always want our spaces to have a residential feeling — warm, intimate and collected rather than overly designed or traditionally retail.”

“At the same time, I don’t want to copy and paste the same store into different neighborhoods,” she continued. “West Hollywood will have a different energy that reflects its location and customer, while still feeling unmistakably Leset.” We’re told the store will also be much larger, with two levels of merchandise.

For Chemla, the most important goal of expanding into retail is to create spaces where customers can experience the brand beyond their phone screens.

“My dream is for our stores to become a real expression of the world of Leset,” she said. “There’s something really special about experiencing the clothes in person — feeling the fabrics, trying everything on, seeing how the pieces work together and creating a space around them that brings the full world of the brand to life.”

See more images of the new Leset store, below.

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British Fashion Council Announces The Fashion Awards 2026 Nominees

The British Fashion Council (BFC) announced the nominees for The Fashion Awards 2026 on Wednesday. For its top award — Designer of the Year — nominees include Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row, Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent, Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford, Matthieu Blazy for Chanel, Michael Rider for Celine and Sarah Burton for Givenchy. The BFC also unveiled the nominees for British Womenswear Designer, British Menswear Designer and the Vanguard Award. See the full list of nominees here. Winners will be announced on Nov. 30. {Fashionista inbox}

Nike Appoints Alexandre Arnault to Board of Directors

Nike has appointed LVMH executive Alexandre Arnault to its board of directors. Since February 2025, Arnault has served as the deputy chief executive of Moët Hennessy. He is joining the board ahead of Nike’s exit from the S&P 100 on Sept. 21. “[Arnault’s] experience across innovation, digital transformation and brand building will be an asset as we continue to strengthen our connection with consumers, sharpen our competitive edge and accelerate Nike’s next chapter of growth around the world,” Nike CEO Elliot Hill said in a statement. {Business of Fashion/paywalled}

Mikey Madison Covers Vogue

Mikey Madison is Vogue‘s second October 2026 cover star for its three-part Vogue World special issue. Photographed by Drew Vickers and styled by Carlos Nazario, Madison wears a Prada jacket and Tiffany & Co. jewelry on the cover. In conversation with Marley Marius, Madison talks winning the Oscar for Best Actress, her dreams of starting a family and her upcoming film “The Social Reckoning.” Vogue‘s October 2026 issue will be available on newsstands on Sept. 29. Read the full cover story here. {Fashionista inbox}

Will Fashion Ban Wool?

At PETA’s protest on the COS runway during New York Fashion Week, activists urged the label to stop selling wool and claimed that sheep are abused in the shearing process. The conversation around banning wool is nearly non-existent: Knitwear is booming, and the International Woolmark Prize is one of fashion’s leading talent incubators. Even if the fashion industry issued a ban on animal-derived fibers tomorrow, it would take years before plant-based alternatives reach the scale needed to replace them. {Vogue Business/paywalled}

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Her four-year-old Los Angeles-based brand has found success in making trend-driven clothes for sizes 10 to 30 (or L to 5X) and she’s recently teamed up with model and content creator Emma Arletta on a September collection out now. It’s their first ready-to-wear collaboration (and Sinatra’s first with any influencer) following their bridal collaboration earlier this year.

Fashionista caught up with the duo at their New York Fashion Week-timed launch preview held in Dolce Vita’s showroom. The shoe brand was also previewing its fall boot collection, which comes in three different calf sizes — Sinatra was a fit model for the brand and continues to work with it to advocate for inclusivity. That same push for greater inclusivity is what brought Sinatra and Arletta together in the first place.

“Our bridal collection together was such a success, and Emma’s eye is just chef’s kiss,” Sinatra said. “Together we work so well, so we decided to do a fall collection together.”

“It had so much success because the big girls want cool clothes, too,” Arletta added.

The collection dips into the trends that the “skinny girls” are wearing, Arletta said. Clothing options for plus-size women are often dated and frumpy (with “grandma florals”), but Gia/irl x Emma Arletta hawks a going-out top, gauchos, a tracksuit and zebra-print separates, all made to look cool and never hide.

The duo admitted that Arletta did have to push Sinatra to go this trendy. For example, Arletta really wanted the overlay detail on the cream Juliette Trousers and eventually won — though Sinatra chose the neutral color. It pairs with the Juliette Jacket with a trendy funnel neck, which Sinatra says is her favorite piece. The Gabi Gauchos were also a “battle,” Sinatra said, but she loves how they came out.

“This is our cool-girl workwear. You walk into the office and everybody’s like, ‘Where’d you get that?’ Arletta said.

Having an interesting print set (in this case, the Zoey Top and Skirt) was especially important to the duo. “As big girls, we’re told to stay away from prints,” Arletta said. “‘They make you look bigger.’ Uh-uh. We don’t feed into that. Zebra is truly the print of the season.”

Sinatra said she looks to the brand’s community for feedback and she hopes to do more influencer collabs in the future, with girls of all sizes and backgrounds. “Every single event we’ve hosted this weekend has a 200-plus-person waitlist,” Arletta added. “So when I tell you the girls want community, they want community. At Fashion Week, we don’t see ourselves on the runways. We don’t see ourselves at the events. So, what did we do? We created the space to do it.”

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To name a few highlights: British designer Conner Ives made his NYFW debut, showcasing a new catchy slogan T-shirt; Carolina Herrera’s 45th anniversary show paid tribute to New York City; and Rachel Scott presented her sophomore Proenza Schouler collection, unveiling her version of the iconic PS1 handbag.

Scroll through the galleries below to see Fashionista’s favorite Spring 2027 collections from New York Fashion Week.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2027

Related: Rachel Scott Is Feeling More at Ease at Proenza Schouler — and It Shows

Diotima Spring 2027

Related: Rachel Scott’s Sea-Inspired Diotima Collection Plays With Our Expectations of the Brand

Kallmeyer Spring 2027

Related: As Kallmeyer Grows, Its Commitment to the (Very Chic) Customer Never Wavers

Tibi Spring 2027

Related: At Tibi’s Spring 2027 Show, Dolly Parton’s Spirit Lives On

Wiederhoeft Spring 2027

Related: Wiederhoeft Imagines a Beautifully Dressed Apocalypse for Spring 2027

Altuzarra Spring 2027

Related: Altuzarra Gets a ‘Vibe Shift,’ Plays With Gender Codes for Spring 2027

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027

Related: Carolina Herrera’s 45th Anniversary Collection Pays Tribute to New York City

Tory Burch Spring 2027

Related: Tory Burch Spring 2027 Offers a Joyful, Colorful Escape From Our Modern Dystopia

Conner Ives Spring 2027

Eckhaus Latta Spring 2027

Thom Browne Spring 2027

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But no one seems to feel the NYFW pressure more than the designers themselves. For months, they work tirelessly to sew, cut, embroider and drape their collections to perfection. So we can only imagine the sigh of relief they take when they finally present their work and can take a much-needed break (at least, before starting next season’s collection).

For Spring 2027, team Fashionista asked multiple designers what exactly runs through their minds when the runway finale ends and they come out to greet their audience. Andrew Kwon and Grace Ling, for example, reflected on how grateful they are for their teams. Others, like Tory Burch and Heirlome’s Stephanie Suberville, felt emotional. All of them were relieved. As Rachel Antonoff described it: “Thank fucking God.”

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Ahead, read what was going through designers’ heads as they took their final bows.

Rachel Scott of Proenza Schouler and Diotima

“Oh God, you don’t even know how much I think about this. Well, first of all, we had to orchestrate to make sure [the] closing model could help me up the stairs. It was logistically challenging, but she was so sweet to hold my hand. But I also, when I come out, it’s intimidating. I’m not a model. I started this job so I could make clothes, not walk on a runway, but you always walk out and when you see friendly faces, it’s just really nice. So the first person I saw when I walked out was Samira Nasr, who is such a legend.”

Tory Burch

“On some levels I’m like, it’s quite emotional because you’re [working] until the very last minute. I saw a girl, she didn’t realize she was about to walk so she didn’t have her shoes. My team is upset. I’m like, ‘Barefoot’s the new black. Who cares?’ You just can’t worry about it. But it’s just a relief. This one was a lot of work for all of us. It was just like, wow, I just breathed it.”

Nicola Brognano of 7 For All Mankind

“I’m thinking: I did a good job.”

Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra

“I think that I’m really relieved.”

Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera

“I actually get really nervous. I have bad anxiety in general and there’s something very scary about it. I have enormous respect for models who can do that, because it’s scary. It’s like walking onto a stage and then having to walk a long way. I’m trying to think to hold my shoulders back. I’m trying to think not to make a goofy face. And then I’m also trying to find my mom and dad, Mrs. Herrera and my husband.”

Patricia Bonaldi of PatBo

“I’m not thinking about anything. It’s more like very high adrenaline. I can barely say ‘Hi,’ but it’s a moment that feeds me. It makes me feel very confident and sure that I need to keep doing this.”

Stephanie Suberville of Heirlome

“I was actually really scared and I didn’t want to do it because I just wanted to pop up and say hi, but I wanted to have a moment with [Maricarmen Jimenez] and she actually helped me because I was holding her hand really tight. She was very calm and she’s an artist, so she kind of calmed me down. So it was kind of nice.”

Veejay Floresca

“I’m always thinking about, ‘When is the next one?’ I think it’s really fun to do something that I love, and am passionate about. So, I’m just thinking about, ‘what’s next?'”

Keith Herron of Advisry

“It’s funny because when I first was doing runway shows, I would always run down and it kind of makes it faster, that moment, because it’s a nerve-wracking moment. But lately I was like, ‘Oh, let me take it slow and enjoy this moment.’ So I guess I try to feel the energy of the room and finally be present in that room, because you spend so much time preparing for this runway show and then you don’t actually experience it yourself. That’s the one moment you get to really be there. So I just try to take it slow and enjoy that moment.”

Ella Mae Jepsen of Ella Mae

“Oh my gosh, I don’t know if I was thinking about anything except for like, ‘ahhh!'”

Prabal Gurung

“I’m thinking about my mother. My mom lives in Nepal. Sometimes she’s in New York. It’s been a while [since] she came to my show. Honest to God, that’s all I’m thinking about. I’m thinking about my mother and how grateful that I am that she allowed me to live my dreams ever since I was a kid. And then my team, who without whom, I wouldn’t be able to do this. And I get to walk out in the end, but it’s an entire village who does this work. So I’m thinking of my mother and my team and then hopefully a long rest.”

Rachel Antonoff

“Thank fucking God. With humans, you can’t always anticipate what’s going to happen, but with animals, you absolutely can only anticipate that you have no idea what’s going to happen. You know, it was fine and we’re thrilled.”

Susan Korn of Susan Alexandra

“We had our two dogs with us, our elders, backstage with us, and we told them that this is all for them because they both inspired us to put all this rescue dog love into the world.”

Patricio Campillo of Campillo

“I’m blank. I’m like, ‘Holy shit, thank God it’s done.’ I don’t know. It’s a lot every time I do a show and I do a collection. I don’t know what to think. I don’t know if I’m happy or if I’m devastated. It’s just every time I do it, it’s so important to me. So yeah, I’m not necessarily the most balanced person emotionally after the shows.”

Kate Barton

“Everyone’s always like, ‘Are you excited for your show, fashion week?’ And I’m like, ‘I’ll be excited once we’re there.’ So I feel like now I’m excited to have a fun night and we have a party after this, so I’m excited to just have fun after.”

Christian Cowan

“I hate doing my bow, so my mind is at, ‘How long do I have to be out here before I can hide again?’ So I just keep it quick. Of course I like to wish everybody a ‘thank you,’ but I just don’t love everybody looking at me.”

Christian Juul Nielsen of Aknvas

“I was thinking about [my husband] Casper. I wanted to wave at him, but I couldn’t see him because he was at the end of the runway, and I wanted to… just grab him, but there was too much light.”

Sergio Hudson

“Thank God it’s over. But this year when I take a bow, I’m going to be wearing a shirt we did in collaboration with Live Free 999. I’m trying to get a message out there about mental health: You’re not alone, and you don’t have to suffer in silence.”

Ben Doctor

“I was thinking, ‘thank God it’s over.’ I’m not kidding. I think this year was especially hard to push at the end. So, I was just really happy that it was over and that it was a success.”

Andrew Kwon

“I think about my team. Not just my team in the atelier, but also the teams who are helping to build [the show] the day of. The shows literally last 12-15 minutes, yet it’s months and months of building and creating. So all I’m thinking about is the teams helping to build Andrew Kwon, and I feel so grateful for them.”

Jackson Wiederhoeft of Wiederhoeft

“It’s hard to describe. It’s like every feeling at once — it’s very intense. It’s very vulnerable, yet it’s very exciting. I’m very proud but also very sad to move on from this world and close the tomb.”

Grace Ling

“I’m really thankful for everyone who came. I’m also thinking, ‘It’s done, thank God. It’s done and it’s done well.’ To be honest, what’s running through my mind is how thankful I am for my team. It takes a whole village, and there are just so many behind [the show and the collection], and everybody works so hard.”

Jane Wade

“I’m actually a pretty shy person when it comes to large crowds. So I would prefer to be the person that’s just hiding in the back and pops out with a little wave. But my whole team always pushes me to go out and do a clap and I like to bring my team out as well so that way they can feel celebrated for all the hard work they contributed as well.”

Kim Shui

“I’m just like, ‘I can’t believe we did this.’ When I was backstage, everybody started crying, so that got me more emotional.”

Amy Smilovic of Tibi

“I just want to get in and get out. This is not for me to run out there and take the accolades.”

Jonathan Simkhai of Simkhai

“I can’t believe that all these people are here to see my collection and I hope they like it.”

Aisling Camps

“I can sleep tonight.”

Tyler McGillivary

“I was thinking relief, relief. It’s such a very stressful show to coordinate with all the animations and stuff, but I was also just thinking how proud I am of my team, and just amazed at how far we’ve come from ‘Date Night’ to here in a couple of seasons.”

Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette

“You’re so mortified, personally, embarrassed and not a model. You’re not used to all the big lights, and you’re not used to other people. My desire is always to sprint away. But I tried not to jog this time, because I’m not a runner. It’s better to keep it moving at a medium pace. So, I was thinking about not running.”

Rachel Comey

“I’m thinking when I take my post show bow, how quickly and fast can I do it.”

Fletcher Kasell of Tanner Fletcher

“I’m probably blacked out by that time. I can hardly get words out of my mouth. It’s very exhausting, but it’s very rewarding. It’s kind of like a crazy emotional arc.”

Tanner Richie of Tanner Fletcher

“I think doing this together….we feel like we kind of just, I always say it’s like having a baby. You’re putting something out there into the world that we did together and that is a really special moment.”

Kimberley Gordon of Selkie

“I’m thinking about my daughter because I’m worried about what she’s thinking. I’m looking at the room because we don’t see the room until we come out, so it’s insane to see all the outfits and all the people. You lose all thought, honestly.”

Reporting by Dhani Mau, Steph Saltzman, Elizabeth Denton, Janelle Sessoms, Catie Pusateri and Neia Dizon.

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September’s NYFW shows have officially come to a close, marking the end of a whirlwind week for fashion editors, including team Fashionista. Our bi-coastal team convened in New York City to hit up all the biggest runway shows, presentations, parties and events for Spring 2027 — including, of course, Coach’s 85th anniversary show. But what were the chic-yet-functional bags and on-trend footwear that got us through it all in style (and, equally as important, comfort)? Coach’s accessories lineup was in heavy rotation to be sure.

Related: Coach Throws Itself a Birthday Party for Spring 2027

This September, New York Fashion Week’s biggest street style trend was dressing down. Showgoers swapped teetering heels and other impractical shoes for flats and sneakers that kept them looking (and feeling) good through the week.

Our editors are big fans of the casual-yet-cool style trend, and so Coach’s Margot and Soho shoes became true fashion week MVPs. The former, a classic ballet flat with a buckle detail, comes in both chocolate brown and black. We love that it’s sleek, timeless and adds a bit of polish to any look.

But for sneaker lovers, it doesn’t get better than the Coach Soho: This canvas-and-jacquard shoe features a lining made from 100% recycled polyester, a midsole that contains at least 28% bio-based content and a grooved rubber outsole detailed with a map of Manhattan. These sneakers were basically made for NYFW.

Our bags are just as crucial for enabling us to tote around our laptops, cameras, notebooks, water bottles, makeup pouches, mini fans (September subway temperatures are no joke!) and 47 lip products.

This season, we loved the roomy spaciousness of Coach’s Brooklyn bag, and there’s something about a slouchy shoulder bag casually slung over your shoulder that radiates fashion “It” girl. But because the Brooklyn is a structured sort of slouchy, it’s a more elevated, elegant way to get in on the trend. Even better: It comes in multiple sizes. The Brooklyn 39 fits a 15″ laptop, while the Brooklyn 34 can accommodate a tablet, notebook and water bottle. The smaller Brooklyn 28 is perfect for days so jam-packed we decide to leave our laptops on standby at the office.

Shop the on-trend bags and footwear that got us through NYFW:

Coach Margot Ballet in Black, $155, available here

Coach Margot Ballet in Brown, $155, available here

Coach Soho Sneaker in Chalk/Poppy, $155, available here

Coach Soho Sneaker in Mixed Green Signature, $155, available here

Coach Brooklyn 34 in Natural Grain Leather/Brass/Scarlet, $395, available here

Coach Brooklyn Shoulder Bag 28 in Brown Suede, $295, available here

Brooklyn Shoulder Bag 34 in Natural Grain Leather/Brass/Black, $395, available here

Coach Brooklyn Shoulder Bag 39 in Suede/Brass/Warm Brown, $495, available here

LuxExperience Returns to Profit in Fourth Quarter

LuxExperience, the parent company of Mytheresa and Net-a-Porter, returned to profitability in its fiscal fourth quarter. CEO Michael Kliger cited strong growth at Mytheresa, as well as a turnaround at Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter. Yoox also recorded growth for the first time since its acquisition. LuxExperience’s net sales rose 7.6% to €653.6 million ($754 million) in Q4, and executives forecast further sales and margin gains in the new fiscal year, which began in July. {LuxExperience; WWD/paywalled}

Authentic Brands Group Eyes IPO

Authentic Brands Group could pursue an initial public stock offering (IPO) as early as the first half of next year. CEO Matthew Maddox told Bloomberg TV that the licensing giant is “ready to go.” The company posts an 81% profit margin on $2.2 billion in revenue, with organic growth between 7% to 8% annually. Authentic owns $10 billion of intellectual property, and Maddox wants to double that over the next 24 months. {Bloomberg/paywalled}

Jil Sander Names Marco Viganò CEO

Jil Sander has named Marco Viganò as its new CEO, effective Sept. 15. He succeeds OTB Group CEO Ubaldo Minelli, who had been overseeing the brand on an interim basis. Viganò joins from Moncler, where he served as global chief client officer and president EMEA, and previously held senior roles at Audemars Piguet, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and L’Oréal. {Fashionista inbox}

L’Oréal Overtakes LVMH as France’s Most Valuable Company

L’Oréal overtook LVMH on Tuesday as France’s most valuable listed company, reaching market capitalization of about €203 billion ($234.2 billion) versus LVMH’s €201 billion ($231.9 billion). Analysts say consumers are favoring small indulgences over big-ticket items, lifting L’Oréal shares by 5% this year while LVMH fell by 35%. LVMH also dropped out of Europe’s top 10 companies by market capitalization, and CEO Bernard Arnault lost his title as Europe’s richest person to Zara Founder Amancio Ortega. {Reuters/paywalled}

Prada Rules Out Armani Bid

Prada is not considering a bid for Armani and remains focused on turning around Versace, which it acquired last year, CEO Andrea Guerra told Reuters. Armani is preparing for a sale of a 15% ​stake in the company. Guerra also said smart glasses launch under a Prada-owned brand is unlikely in the “near future,” despite past “exploratory talks” with EssilorLuxottica. {Reuters/paywalled}

TikTok Shop’s Luxury Resale Boom Driven by Livestreams

TikTok Shop said livestreams now drive 94% of its U.S. luxury resale revenue. The category’s gross merchandise value surged 400% year-over-year, fueled by handbags and watches. Resale brands such as Fashionphile, Rebag and MyGemma have built sizable followings on the platform, part of a broader shift toward secondhand shopping among younger consumers. ThredUp predicts the global secondhand apparel market will reach $393 billion by 2030. {Modern Retail}

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“I am honored to take on this dual role across Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, and deeply grateful to Silvana [Armani] and Leo [Dell’Orco] for welcoming me into their world,” Vitale said in a press statement. “Armani has a powerful legacy and unmistakable design language; a heritage that has spanned decades and shaped the history of fashion. I approach all of this with a deep sense of responsibility and excitement as we build upon that rich foundation, defining a new era together.”

The 43-year-old Italian designer has an impressive fashion resume: He’s worked at Bottega Veneta (under Tomas Maier), and in 2010, joined Miu Miu, working closely with Miuccia Prada. He worked his way up to becoming Miu Miu’s design director of ready-to-wear and brand image director, before stepping down in March 2025. He then notably succeeded Donatella Versace as Versace’s chief creative officer, becoming the first non-Versace family member to helm that brand in April 2025. Even though his debut Versace collection was well received, he left in December 2025 (amid the brand’s acquisition by Prada Group), after only one season.

Now, at Emporio Armani, he’s tasked with ushering in a new chapter for the brand, bringing an innovative edge while maintaining the label’s established identity and aesthetic, per the press statement.

“The appointment of Dario Vitale marks an important milestone for the Armani Group: a decision that strengthens our creative organization and confirms our commitment to looking ahead, consolidating the Group’s path of evolution while remaining faithful to Giorgio Armani’s values and vision,” added Giuseppe Marsocci, CEO and managing director of the Armani Group.

Vitale is the latest high-profile designer to join a major luxury house: Other recent appointments include Olivier Rousteing at Rabanne, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo at Moschino and Kai Nesselrath at Carven.

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On the heels of Matthieu Blazy’s viral “barefoot sandals” for Chanel — introduced at the label’s Cruise 2027 show and later co-signed by Margaret Qualley — perhaps NYFW’s foot-forward looks took the shoeless trend a step further. But most of this season’s foot-baring styling choices weren’t actually choices at all.

At 7 For All Mankind’s show, models strutted down the catwalk in Y2K-era platform pumps (the kind that make your ankles hurt just from looking at them), but when it came time for the final walk, one brave soul (sole?) returned to the runway sans the towering heels. (Good for her!)

Over at Tory Burch, the designer told Fashionista’s Editor-in-Chief Dhani Mau that the show’s one barefoot model wasn’t a stylistic choice, but rather, she simply hadn’t been given her shoes in time. “My team was upset,” Burch said. “I’m like, ‘Barefoot’s the new black!’ You just can’t worry about it.”

Burch’s incident was an honest mistake that likely looked intentional to the casual viewer, and makes us wonder if any of the other aforementioned designers encountered a similar shoe predicament and just chose to put a spin on it. Because whether fashion brands are intentionally opting for barefoot runway moments or not, there’s an ongoing problem that can’t be denied: Too many designers are selecting footwear that puts models in precarious situations, potentially rendering them as fall risks. Across Fashionista’s Spring 2027 reporting, multiple editors witnessed stumbles (or full-on falls) that resulted from difficult footwear.

For the final look in Henry Zankov’s debut collection for Diane von Furstenberg, the model — who was wearing platform heels — fell to the ground after her billowing train swept up under her (though, in her defense, The High Line’s wind made her voluminous gown particularly unruly). Multiple footwear mishaps clouded Area’s runway: One model stumbled, one held her kitten heels at her side to finish her walk and another kicked off her pesky heels mid-finale. Attendees said it was clear the shoes were “falling apart.” Meanwhile, a carpeted runway made a Retrofête model wobble, and Luar‘s cobblestone-like catwalk at the Queens Museum was grounds for potential twisted ankles.

Sure, uncomfortable footwear can be written off as an expected job hazard for models, but ensuring a safe work environment should be a top priority for designers. The barefoot “trend” we saw across this season’s runways was not technically a trend at all. Most instances were unintentional happenstances where models were faced with two options: Kick off the shoes or risk faceplanting.

Barefoot Looks at NYFW Spring 2027

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The show presented a traveling pirate circus with “warrior girls” living off the grid (complete with retro music devices) in the aftermath of an imagined apocalypse, per show notes. They’re haunted by the past and unsure of what lies ahead. Rebellious circus performers turn to creativity and joy as acts of survival. (Plus, an impressively flexible performer opened and closed the show.)

The collection brings maritime folklore, historical fantasy and circus imagery into Selkie’s hyperfeminine world. Pirate and harlequin motifs appear alongside armor, corsetry, romantic dresses and theatrical silhouettes. Chainmail, religious jewelry, seashells and oversized accessories give the brand’s usual fantasy a darker edge.

Gordon was inspired by Cheryl Strayed’s “The Ghost Ship That Didn’t Carry Us,” a 2011 Dear Sugar advice column later collected in her book, “Tiny Beautiful Things.”

“It’s about choice in the end. It’s about not regretting anything that you’ve chosen in your life,” Gordon told Fashionista after the show on Monday. “[In the essay, Strayed] talks about how we will never know of the life that we don’t choose. It’s sort of like two ships passing and there’s nothing you can do but wave to it from the shore.”

Gordon pointed to decisions she’s made in the past and the online response to them. “I’ve made some controversial ones and I’ve regretted some of them,” she said. “And when you’re on social media, you get a lot of things, like being called a clown, that it’s all a circus, like ‘what a clown show.’ And I thought, ‘why not put on the ultimate clown show then and embrace the fool?'”

She wanted the show to have an “apocalyptic feeling” because “of the zeitgeist right now.” “There’s a lot of discussion about the world ending and a lot of people live in terror of this and I don’t live in terror of that,” Gordon added. The designer also pulled inspiration from the Emily St. John Mandel novel, “Station Eleven” (and subsequent TV series), which follows performers continuing to be creative at the end of the world.

“Even in an apocalypse, even at the end of the world, creativity and love survive and they are the foundations of all things that are important,” Gordon said. “And we have so much fear, but we don’t need to be afraid when we have creativity. [For] these performers, it’s an act of service to put out art and to perform.”

“All life’s a stage and to be performative — what does that even mean?” the designer continued. “Because we are all performing on a constant basis. And so I thought, ‘what about a show about performing?'”

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Ahead, see all the looks from Selkie’s Fall 2026 collection.

Selkie Fall 2026

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“It’s really reflecting on how every generation feels that they’re living through the end of the world,” Herron told Fashionista at his studio ahead of the label’s show on Tuesday. “So, in doing so, I took a look back at how this nation felt 50 years prior in the ’70s.”

View the 2 images of this gallery on the original article

Staged in three separate acts, Advisry’s Spring 2027 collection (titled “America, Still”) opens with a procession of croc leather straitjackets and distressed denim inspired by Bickle, who represents New York City’s gritty past. Though, as the show notes read: “This is not glorifying. It is diagnosing.” A mohawked model even wore a military jacket made in the specific army green color Bickle wears in “Taxi Driver.”

The collection’s second act introduces formal suiting with checkerboard motifs sprinkled throughout. Pearl masks concealed models’ faces, while sculptural fascinators accessorized buttoned-up coats. Herron used “fringe wool,” as he calls it, throughout this section, most prominently shown in the ruffled linings on jackets. “It’s to symbolize how something that can be perfectly constructed can still come apart at its edges,” he said.

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Its third act bursts with color, as seen in sequin basketball shorts, furry gloves and striped sweaters made from glitter yarn (a new fabric for the label, Herron said). The pearl motifs that veiled models’ faces in the second act travel down to a cream-colored jacket embellished with the gemstones. When addressing this section of the show in the collection’s show notes, Herron specifically called out Nina Simone, Sly Stone and Gil Scott-Heron, referring to them as “the people who took everything from the first two acts and made something beautiful from it.”

Ahead, see all the looks from Advisry’s Spring 2027 collection.

Advisry Spring 2027

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On Tuesday afternoon, the New York-based designer presented his Spring 2027 collection, titled “Séraphine.” Inspired by Nicolino Calyo’s painting, “Arcadian Landscape,” it explores femininity through the beauty and mystery of the natural world, according to the show notes. The resulting spring offering translates the movement of shifting lights and cascading waterfalls into iridescent fabrics and sweeping trains. Kwon incorporated more direct natural references through hand-tacked crystallized floral embroideries and an earthy color palette (spanning violet and midnight blues, sage green and cloud grey).

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“[Pushing] myself as a designer means listening to my own intuition, not listening to trends and not knowing if it’s going to sell or not,” Kwon told Fashionista backstage ahead of the show. “Creating something that feels different and that other people don’t have is something I’m always challenging myself to do…It was something that I was uncomfortable with at certain points before, but I’m fully embracing now.”

Ahead, see every look from Andrew Kwon’s Spring 2027 collection.

Andrew Kwon Spring 2027

Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

“The water has always been really important to me, but after last season, I had quite mystical experiences with the water and specifically the water in the Caribbean,” Scott, who was born in Jamaica, said backstage after the show. “It reminded me of, obviously the beauty and the density of it, but also the fact that this is a site where mystical and also quite awful things happen. It’s a burial ground, essentially.”

She considered how much the water changes over centuries, and then “all of the women that existed across time” throughout the Caribbean archipelago, from someone working on a colonial plantation 200 years ago, to an anti-colonial poet like Suzanne Césaire, to a woman there today.

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The resulting collection doesn’t necessarily look tethered to any specific time period, but there’s always a distinct modernity to Scott’s work and the innovative ways in which she layers and manipulates materials. A prime example is the voluminous, almost fluffy-looking fabric on dresses, tops and skirts: strips of organza cut up and reapplied to garments. It appears dense and voluminous, but is also lightweight and airy; Scott sculpted this and other materials in unique ways to evoke water, undulating waves and sargassum. The collection’s color palette — deep blues, muted greens, sand tones and browns — also nod to the sea and its evolution over time on our warming planet.

“The Caribbean is so often imagined through crystalline blue water, but the sea is never only one color,” read the show notes. “As the waters warm and sargassum gathers at the surface, the colors and textures of the sea change. These changes are not only environmental. They touch communities, knowledge and living traditions.”

It feels like a deeply personal collection for Scott; while continuing to helm two brands, she sees Diotima as an opportunity for experimentation. “I’m quite rebellious in that, if I think people expect something from me, I want to do something else,” she shared. “And so instead of having a collection that was embellished all over or all crochet, I really wanted to think about form and I really wanted to think about tailoring… I think what’s really nice about Diotima is that there is this freedom to play. The only expectations I have are to myself.”

See every look from Diotima Spring 2027 below.

Diotima Spring 2027

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Although Heirlome refuses to re-issue designs without the original artist’s permission, Jimenez’s daughter Maricarmen (a third-generation alebrijes artisan and a local shaman) asked Suberville to bring back the sold-out prints. Thus, Heirlome revisited Jimenez’s craftsmanship for Spring 2027, but this time, with Maricarmen’s distinct feminine perspective.

“This was like a posthumous collaboration with her dad and a collaboration with her,” Suberville told Fashionista after Heirlome’s runway show on Tuesday morning. “So the prints and the concept really came from her. She has Zapotec ancestry, so we took a lot of inspiration from that with her permission.”

Maricarmen designed this season’s dash-like prints, which reference her father’s trademark “fur strokes.” The oval-shaped pattern appears across a button-up shirt, a maxi skirt, a flowing strapless dress and a huipil (or a traditional tunic from Mexico). She also crafted all of the wood-carved jewelry pieces, including vibrant necklaces and rings depicting the Zapotec zodiac. (Each attendee also took home their very own alebrije; Mine was a spotted owl.)

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Against a backdrop of mostly monochromatic styles (a signature for the minimalist label), a few pops of color emerged: a cerulean tassel-embellished maxi skirt, an aqua blue collared shirt and a marigold yellow silk dress. The collection’s tassel motifs stem from a type of shirt worn in Zapotec culture that features a braided tassel (or “yechee”) on the front. Alongside Heirlome’s other textural brand codes — fringe, pom-poms — they’re seen throughout the collection’s structured trench coats, patterned shawls (or “rebozos”), sleeveless tops and statement headpieces. The Spring 2027 offering also introduces denim via relaxed, wide-leg silhouettes that seamlessly fit into the Heirlome woman’s wardrobe.

“We’ve grown a lot in the last year and it felt like the right time,” Suberville said of Heirlome’s decision to stage its first runway show. “Also, because the artisan collaboration was so important to me, because I’ve grown very close with the Jimenez family, I wanted to give them a bigger platform.”

Ahead, see all the looks from Heirlome’s Spring 2027 collection.

Heirlome Spring 2027

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Marketing, Social Media & Content Coordinator
Verstolo | New York City
Employment: Full-time
Workplace: In person — New York City

The Opportunity
Verstolo is a growing luxury jewelry company looking for a creative, energetic, and highly motivated Marketing, Social Media & Content Coordinator to join our team in person at our New York City office.

This is a fast-paced, hands-on role for someone who loves social media, content creation, marketing, fashion, jewelry, and luxury — and who wants to be directly involved in growing a brand.

The coordinator will play an important role in shaping Verstolo’s marketing strategy and brand presence across social media, email, events, B2B and B2C marketing, and other customer-facing channels.

More Than a Posting Role
We are looking for someone who can think creatively and strategically about our brand, audience, and growth goals — and who is excited to execute those ideas hands-on.

The Role
You will help manage and grow Verstolo’s overall marketing presence, including social media, email marketing, events, B2B initiatives, B2C campaigns, and general brand content.

Social Media & Content

• Manage Verstolo’s presence across Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, Pinterest, and other relevant platforms.
• Create, plan, schedule, and publish engaging social content.
• Film, edit, and produce Reels, TikToks, Stories, short-form videos, and other content.
• Develop creative concepts, posts, graphics, and campaigns.
• Build and manage content calendars.
• Help develop and execute Verstolo’s overall social media growth strategy.
• Stay current on social media, fashion, bridal, jewelry, luxury, and cultural trends.
• Bring new ideas consistently and test new formats and approaches.
• Capture content with clients, jewelry, events, and members of the Verstolo team.
• Monitor performance and use results to continuously improve content.
• Maintain a consistent Verstolo brand voice and visual identity.
• Follow appropriate approval and release procedures before publishing client, team, or event content.

Marketing Strategy & Creation

• Help develop and execute Verstolo’s overall marketing strategy.
• Create marketing campaigns for both B2C and B2B audiences.
• Develop email marketing campaigns, including concepts, copy, visuals, and campaign planning.
• Create initiatives for bridal clients, past clients, industry partners, venues, planners, stylists, and other professional relationships.
• Develop campaigns around rentals, Rent. Own., engagement rings, custom jewelry, fine jewelry, and other Verstolo offerings.
• Create marketing materials for industry events, bridal events, private client events, trunk shows, and other company initiatives.
• Develop invitations, promotional materials, presentations, digital assets, and other marketing collateral.
• Help plan and promote client and industry events.
• Support seasonal campaigns, launches, promotions, and strategic initiatives.
• Create brand and marketing content beyond social media.
• Maintain consistency across social media, email, events, website content, and other customer touchpoints.
• Proactively bring new marketing ideas and opportunities to the team.

Additional Responsibilities

Because we are a growing company, everyone on our team plays an active role in the business. This position will also include administrative and office responsibilities, including:

• Managing incoming and outgoing jewelry rental shipments.
• Receiving and organizing returned rental orders.
• Assisting with daily office tasks and organization.
• Supporting the sales and operations teams when needed.
• Helping wherever necessary to keep the office running smoothly.

Who We’re Looking For

The ideal candidate is:

• Highly creative with a strong visual eye.
• Extremely comfortable with Instagram, TikTok, Reels, Stories, and emerging social platforms.
• Experienced with filming, video creation, and editing.
• Interested in both creative execution and marketing strategy.
• A strong writer who can create compelling marketing copy.
• Able to understand how social, email, events, B2B, and B2C marketing work together.
• Organized and capable of managing multiple projects simultaneously.
• Hard-working, proactive, dependable, and willing to take ownership.
• Comfortable working in a busy, fast-paced environment.
• Naturally curious and excited to constantly learn and try new things.
• Someone who stays on top of trends and understands what makes content engaging.
• A strong communicator and team player.
• Detail-oriented and willing to handle both creative and administrative responsibilities.

Experience with fashion, jewelry, bridal, luxury, lifestyle brands, email marketing, or event marketing is a plus.

About Verstolo
Verstolo is a growing fine jewelry company with a unique approach to luxury jewelry, bridal, rentals, custom design, and fine jewelry.

We care deeply about our team culture and office atmosphere. We want Verstolo to be a positive, collaborative, creative, ambitious, and enjoyable place to work.

We are looking for someone who wants to become an important part of the team, contribute ideas, take ownership, and grow with the company.

This is a great opportunity for someone who wants more than a traditional marketing or social media job and is excited to be involved in many aspects of building a growing luxury brand.

This is a full-time, in-person position based in New York City.

How to Apply
Please email info@verstolo.com with the subject line: “Marketing, Social Media & Content Coordinator Application”

Please include:

• Your résumé.
• Links to your Instagram, TikTok, portfolio, or other relevant work.
• A few examples of social media, video, email, or marketing content you have created.
• A short introduction telling us why you are interested in Verstolo and why you think you would be a great fit for the role.

We are especially interested in seeing your creativity, personal style, understanding of social media, and ability to think beyond simply posting content.

@verstolo

“For me, this season, I felt ready to show our new vision for Retrofête,” designer and co-founder Ohad Seroya told Fashionista over email. “After eight years of Retrofête, we’re in a very different place…This season, the creative side of me was inspired, the emotional side was ready and the businessman in me said, ‘Okay, let’s do it.’ That’s when I knew it was time to return to the runway.”

While Seroya didn’t have one exclusive starting point for the brand’s Fall 2026 collection (presented during NYFW’s Spring 2027 shows), one of his most prominent sources of inspiration was old European hotel interiors. He studied the upholstery, vintage carpets, velvet, embroidery and the shapes of old furniture.

“I started looking at every little detail and thinking about how I could bring that feeling into the collection,” he shared. “Then I started thinking about the woman who belongs in that world…She walks into a restaurant, a hotel, a party, and immediately you think, ‘Who is she?’ The collection became my way of bringing the Retrofête girl into this world.”

The lineup is full of tapestry-inspired prints, lace blouses and rich textures such as fur and feathers. Plenty of glamour — Retrofête’s DNA — also shows up in the collection, taking shape in dramatic fur coats and crystal-embellished gowns.

“I want our girl to look like she just walked out of a movie, or like she could be going to the Met Gala,” he said. “I know my girl. I know how she wants to dress, how she wants to feel and I love connecting with her in different places. Every year, she becomes a little more evolved.”

Below, see every look from Retrofête’s Fall 2026 collection.

Retrofête Fall 2026

Photos: Courtesy of Retrofête

In addition to celebrating the brand and honoring the legacy of Mrs. Herrera herself, Creative Director Wes Gordon wanted to pay homage to New York City. “We’ve been doing destination shows: Last spring we were in Madrid, and before that, Mexico City and Rio. So this time we made our destination New York,” he told Fashionista backstage in a post-show interview.

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One nod to the city comes via a collaboration with The New Yorker: The collection features an embroidered version of the magazine cover that ran on the day of Mrs. Herrera’s first show in 1981, adorning both a marigold yellow mini dress and boatneck top. (There’s also a red knit featuring the magazine’s logo.)

Other cheeky NYC-specific details include black and white cookie earrings and frog adornments on handbags and earrings. “The frogs were a little reference to La Grenouille [French for “frog”], which was Mrs. Herrera’s favorite restaurant,” said Gordon. Renderings of Andy Warhol’s 1979 portrait of Mrs. Herrera also appear throughout the collection, on handbags and a mini dress. Gordon brought a clear playfulness to the designs, underscoring the celebratory nature of the show. “It was about characters. It was about clothes with soul, clothes that are fun,” he said.

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But where Mrs. Herrera and New York City were the inspirations, beauty was the true overall theme of the show. From the venue — one of Manhattan’s most beautiful theaters — and the thousands of yellow tulips that served as the striking center of the runway, to the baubles peppered throughout the show (a collaboration with Taffin and James de Givenchy) and the billowing trains, sheer fabrics and delicate details, the overall impact was a visual feast. “I just feel there’s a desire for beautiful, pretty things,” said Gordon. “Gone are the days where those are bad words.”

As for the designer’s favorite pieces (“It’s really hard to ask me [that] about two minutes after the show because I’m so emotionally invested in all 63 looks,” said Gordon of the question), “There’s a fabulous dress that I love that’s a silver lace dress with three tiers around the neck of gray organza and silver lace, a big black organza bow right at the front and then the back is completely cut out….I loved her. She was great,” he said.

For Gordon, Carolina Herrera’s 45th anniversary is a momentous occasion for the fashion industry — but also for New Yorkers, Americans, immigrants and women. Reflecting on its significance, he said: “This anniversary is really something that all of us as New Yorkers and Americans should celebrate because it’s a story of a woman who moved to New York from Venezuela. And in 1981 — as a mother of four in an industry that was largely male dominated — started a fashion line. One of the hardest industries, one of the hardest businesses, and here we are 45 years later. It’s a global super brand with fragrance, beauty, fashion, accessories, eyewear. I mean, it’s the American dream in so many ways. She’s a great American talent. She’s an icon and it’s my great honor to get to be a caretaker of her legacy.”

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Ahead, see every look from Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2027 collection.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027

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The show felt like the fashion equivalent of a palate cleanser, with Maxwell aiming to strip away any bells and whistles and encapsulate the essence of his brand, or as the show notes put it: “distilling designs to their purest and most desirable form.” The intimate setting was part of this, allowing guests to see the clothes up close and take in the luxurious materials, meticulous tailoring and careful attention to detail. The collection’s overall lack of color, aside from a couple of pops of green and red, also helped put those elements into focus. It felt like Maxwell’s goal was to clarify what his brand stands for.

“This collection is not only the outcome of time; it is the outcome of a fully intentional approach,” Maxwell said in a prepared statement. (The designer declined interviews this season.) “Over the years, there have been ideas, techniques and silhouettes that live at the core of Brandon Maxwell. Looking back, I found recurring connection points to re-visit in new iterations, and this ultimately challenged me to form a clearer understanding of my work.”

It may all sound surprisingly serious coming from Maxwell, but he seems to have just gained a more mature perspective. “The control that I was searching for at a younger age has mellowed,” he added. “The collection represents greater ease and honesty: designs as evidence of what makes sense to me, and what I feel confident sharing with you.”

See Brandon Maxwell’s Spring 2027 collection below.

Brandon Maxwell Spring 2027

Caroline Zimbalist, now on her second season showing on the official CFDA calendar, corners the market on sculptural creations veering into the fantastical. Using “biodegradable bioplastics,” the designer crafts organic embellishments akin to wearable works of art, but for Spring 2027, she’s going for an increasingly commercial approach.

“I’ve really evolved the biomaterial technique so now it truly is almost coming into and out of the fabric,” Zimbalist told Fashionista at her Spring 2027 presentation on Monday. “The garments feel even more wearable than ever.”

“If I really want to be a successful designer here, people need to be wearing things that they can move in,” Zimbalist continued. “So really, truly challenging myself to bring that fine art element back to a wearable grounding state.”

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This season, the label’s wearable offerings include ruffled asymmetrical slips, pleated wide-leg pants and halter neck maxi dresses. To achieve the collection’s colorful, nature-inspired prints, Zimbalist turned to insects for inspiration. More specifically, she studied their individual markings and trails to explore the idea of “leaving our shells behind.”

The label also unveiled “exoskeletons,” as Zimbalist calls them, or hard, multi-colored shells that represent molting. Butterfly wings extend across bodices, while dragonfly motifs appear on “slinky” lace dresses. Pointillism permeates throughout the collection via bio-sequins embedded onto silk fabrics (rather than individually placing each sequin), Zimbalist added.

Ahead, see all the looks from Caroline Zimbalist’s Spring 2027 collection.

Caroline Zimbalist Spring 2027

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Upon arriving at the Queens Museum, the show’s venue, guests walked into a massive park where the Unisphere — a 350-ton, 120-foot-diameter globe — stood center stage. Given the inspiration, it was a fitting show location: This season, designer Raul Lopez was inspired by Christopher Street and Christopher Columbus (hence the globe).

“[This collection] moves between two Christophers,” the show notes read. “One is Christopher Street, where I came of age in New York. A street of collision: nightlife and loneliness, queer lineage and street survival, early-2000s code of masculinity, excess and reinvention…The other is Christopher Columbus, not as myth, but as fracture. Christopher Columbus’ voyages represent a global act of naming and claiming, of rewriting lands, bodies and origins through imposed language.” The fall lineup aims to explore the tension between those two legacies: “the street and the empire,” the notes continued.

An hour and five minutes after the show’s scheduled start time, the first few looks made their way down the runway. The collection’s opening pieces comprise neutral-colored tailoring with touches of 15th- and 16th-century fashion, such as bloomers, ruffle hems and feathered hats. Then, the lineup gets more contemporary, using brighter colors, bolder prints and unconventional shapes.

“What happens when early-modern garments meet early-2000s New York streetwear logic?” the show notes ask. “What happens when identity refuses to stay inside the borders it was assigned?” The answer, based off of Luar’s offering, is a bit unclear and muddled. (Given that Lopez also declined an interview with Fashionista, there was little opportunity to delve beyond what the show notes provided.)

Even with the meandering explanation in the show notes, the collection as a whole left me confused about the designer’s message. Are the clothes attempting commentary on a rejection of colonialism in favor of self-actualization? On the one hand, it seemed Lopez’s intention was for the theme to be about reclamation, or “a refusal to be singular,” as the show notes stated. But on the other, the collection is also supposed to be about “living between codes: fashion and street, luxury and survival, visibility and erasure. So, are we breaking away from these codes or simply adapting to them?

While the collection is beautifully constructed (great gowns, beautiful gowns), the messaging could use a little work.

Ahead, see every look from Luar’s Spring 2027 collection.

Luar Spring 2027

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Where the brand’s first Cabin Wear collection centered on “the woodsy Midwest nostalgia of fall,” this second one shifts to “a relaxed coastal sensibility,” per collection notes. Richie and Kasell take road trips around New England to collect antiques often, they told Fashionista during the preview. “A lot of those pieces are what inspired the collection and our first little nod to nautical,” Richie said. Those nautical themes can be seen in details such as sailboats adorning a dress collar, sailor suit-adjacent silhouettes, middy blouses and neckerchiefs.

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The collection also spans evening wear, knits and swimwear – including the debut of women’s swim for the brand — and even “a little boost on our wedding collection,” as Richie put it. “It’s very broad, and we love it. We really see our world as the kind of full encompassing lifestyle of our customers. So we want to make sure that they can get their swim here, but they can also get their wedding dress [and] they can get everything in between.”

“We always say rather than designers, we like to build a world. So if you’re in the Tanner Fletcher world, you should be able to get anything you need,” Kasell added.

Ahead, see every look from Tanner Fletcher’s Spring 2027 collection.

Tanner Fletcher Spring 2027

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Seidler currently serves as Gabriela Hearst’s design director for jewelry, and his stacked resume also boasts positions at Chloé, Ralph Lauren, Acne Studios and Tiffany & Co., among others. For Seidler’s debut 12-piece collection, the designer turned to his three children (whom he shares with his husband, Coach’s Creative Director Stuart Vevers) for inspiration.

The label’s fawn motif — which also doubles as its logo — is inspired by Seidler’s youngest daughter, Fawn, and shows up in the collection across brooches, pearl drop earrings and tassel necklaces. Named for Seidler’s son, River, a toy car necklace crafted in 18K gold and set with Austrian crystals immortalizes the moment River gifted his father the toy for good luck while designing this collection in Italy. The statement pendant’s all-gold coating also invokes the spirit of an Art Deco scarab, per the brand’s website. And yes, the wheels are fully functional.

Functionality sits at the heart of Seidler’s jewelry assortment: For example, its “transformer” earrings offer seven different ways to wear them. This construction reflects Seidler’s architectural background, as the dangling earrings are engineered to be easily converted into smaller pendants or studs. Seidler came up with this idea by watching his mom friends remove their earrings when the accessories began tugging their earlobes down, the designer told Fashionista at his presentation. This convertible concept continues into the label’s reversible necklaces, which feature a gem and a metal side for versatile styling.

With prices ranging from $150 to $790, the collection also includes bow-shaped brooches, ribbon ear cuffs, barrettes, a collar necklace and more. Seidler’s debut jewelry offering is available in limited quantities now on seidler.co, with the full collection launching in November.

Ahead, see all the looks from Seidler’s Spring 2027 collection.

Seidler Spring 2027

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“It’s fun to do something during September Fashion Week. I do men’s and women’s wear, so it’s a good opportunity to get my community around to celebrate,” Long told Fashionista. “And then I’m a big movie buff, so I just wanted to make something that’s a part of my world and bring it into everyone else’s view.”

Directed by Mayan Toledano and written by Paige Elkington, the “offbeat, present-day heist” stars Meadow Walker, Sydney Lemmon (“Love Story,” “The Drama”), Terrence O’Connor, Nico Geiger, Delar Gaston and Luca Apple as models and “unqualified thieves,” per Long — all wearing Long’s Spring 2027 collection as they navigate theft and downtown New York in style.

“It was really fun to work on because while I was building the collection, I was simultaneously character building,” she said. “It was like costume design meets character building.”

The film’s punny title nods not only to Long’s name, but also to a prominent design detail within the collection: very, very low-cut backs highlighting what the designer cleverly calls “southern cleavage”: “EDL, a Georgia native, reroutes cleavage south, the cut falling not at the chest but along the hip and lower back, a reveal relocated rather than removed,” read the show notes.

As Long has built a name for herself over the last couple of years — she opened an appointment-only showroom/studio space on Chrystie St. in 2025 — it was without a NYFW presence or adherence to the fashion calendar. She releases her viral screen-printed vintage T-shirts, playful accessories, punchy cocktail dresses, men’s trousers and everything in between whenever they’re ready to be sold. Now, she is a finalist for the 2026 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which typically requires some sort of September event previewing a “traditional” collection. For Emily Dawn Long, that means about 12 looks where pieces range from a vintage-looking graphic tee to a metallic “crack”-baring gown.

According to Long, the brand itself hasn’t changed based on any new attention from the industry establishment, but it’s clearly grown.

“I think this is just a testament to my community and what I’ve built and just that it’s getting a little bit bigger. But everyone that helped me make this and everyone that was in the film is a friend and a homie and I’m still making clothes for them,” she said. “For example, Sydney Lemmon, who’s in the film, [her] dress could be for the Oscars or the Emmys, but then everyone else here is wearing a hat. You know what I mean?”

Two things are definitively new for the brand for Spring 2027: prints and a shoe. But beyond new categories, Emily Dawn Long is also gaining visibility in new markets.

“The brand is rooted and based in New York, but I don’t think it stops there. I sell to L.A., Japan, Australia and London every single day, multiple times a day. So it’s getting out there,” she shared. Speaking of L.A., she’s currently working with the owner of Kansas City boutique Mergers on a new retail concept set to open in October. “It’s funny, people think that I’m an L.A. brand when they see it visually,” she noted. “The girls in L.A. are very excited for us to get over there.”

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As a girl (usually) in L.A., I can’t disagree. See every look from Emily Dawn Long’s Spring 2027 collection below.

Emily Dawn Long Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, designer Ella Mae Jepsen was inspired by two of her recent obsessions: Antoinette’s opulent closet and “Y2K trashy Jersey Shore club ‘fits” — an obvious pairing. “I took those two muses, met them together, and we got this sandy, beachy — but also kind of hot girl, indulgent and decadent rebel girl,” Jepsen told Fashionista after the show.

The runway presentation opened with a series of 18th-century silhouettes reimagined in contemporary fabrics, growing more visually striking as the collection progressed into looks awash in punchy pinks and greens. That old/new fusion can be seen throughout the collection, via low-rise capri pants laced up corset-style and an off-the-shoulder T-shirt that reads “Earth Our Mother, take care.” Jepsen also wove in plenty of peek-a-boo moments throughout the collection: “When I was backstage and heard the crowd go crazy because her ass was out, I mean, that was really exciting to hear,” the designer said.

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“That rebel girl is also someone who fights for the Earth, because that’s what Ella Mae is about,” she added, as the brand’s “earth-first” philosophy extends from her concentration in nature, culture and sustainability studies while studying apparel design at Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). In a more tongue-in-cheek way, Jepsen wrote in the show notes: “Save the Earth because it is the only place you can buy lipstick.”

The collection’s accessories include large wraparound sunglasses, ruffled garters and the occasional crowning feather. “Once you get a closer look at things, you’ll see our thin strapping, beautiful fabrics and lots of weaving,” Jepsen said. The designer also experimented with metal casting, a process that involved creating a detailed mold of a peace sign, a common motif throughout the looks.

Below, see every look from Ella Mae’s Spring 2027 collection.

Ella Mae Spring 2027

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“It is with a heavy heart that we share the news that Mr. Bob Mackie passed away today,” his team posted on his Instagram page. “He lived his 87 years to the fullest, fulfilling his dream of being a Fashion and Costume Designer, which is all he ever wanted to do. His genius and extraordinary designs will live on forever, continuing to bring beauty into this world.”

A Los Angeles native, Mackie began his career in costume design, working under designers like Jean Louis and Edith Head. But it was only a matter of time before he became a household name himself: In 1962, he met Cher when she guest-starred on “The Carol Burnett Show” (where he worked at the time), and he eventually began designing gowns for her.

He outfitted her on “The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour,” “Cher” and “The Sonny and Cher Show,” winning several Emmys and a Tony in the process; and designed extravagant gowns for her red carpet events — including the infamous “naked dress” she sported at the 1974 Met Gala. In 2019, he spoke to Fashionista about his decades-long partnership with the singer: “Every time [Cher] wore one of those get-ups, it would be in the paper the next day — all over the country,” he reflected. “Then for years [after], when they talk about red carpet, they’d print [one of her looks] and they’d either hate it or love it or whatever. But it wasn’t fashion. It was like, ‘look at me!'”

But Cher wasn’t Mackie’s only client — he became a go-to for other Hollywood megastars, including Tina Turner, Diana Ross, Whitney Houston, Judy Garland and Liza Minnelli. His work has continued to be embraced by the new generation of stars — Zendaya and Miley Cyrus have pulled from his archives — and fashion collectors have spent thousands buying his pieces at auction.

Mackie’s groundbreaking looks have forever made their mark in the fashion history books and his legacy will never be forgotten.

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Ahead, we’ve rounded up Fashionista’s coverage of everything worth knowing about the Spring 2027 shows so far.

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“It’s an object that is conceptualized in the middle of a process of something else,” Campillo told Fashionista ahead of his Spring 2027 runway show, titled “In Media Res,” on Sunday. “So this comes from the idea of nostalgia, of trying to freeze certain moments that I find beautiful.”

And what, you may ask, does the designer find beautiful? A sunset melting into the horizon, immortalized in a solar-inspired color palette of golden yellows, burnt oranges and bright reds. A strategically draped garment, or a surprising composition of a single piece that looks like two separate constructions. “The inspiration is to make those moments that look unintentional, intentional,” Campillo said.

Previously, Campillo channeled most of his creativity through sketching, but now, on-model fittings have emerged as his design playground. These in-person meetings offer a chance to see how designs interact with the human body, which can lead to an unexpected fabric shift or layering choice. These shifting proportions are now preserved throughout the label’s latest collection, which includes a skirt mirroring the appearance of a blazer wrapped around the model’s waist, backwards denim tops and double-layered pants. Plus, Campillo is also embracing innovation: The final look — a red textural jacket and trousers — may seem like a full leather set, but it’s actually biologically derived polymer produced by bacteria.

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“To me, one of the most important resources to create the brand has been self-reference,” Campillo said. “Through self-reference, you’re able to evolve without necessarily changing the DNA or the identity [of the brand].” The designer arrived to this conclusion, he said, by studying isolated communities in Mexico and how they evolve their traditions over time. By applying this thinking to Campillo’s design process, the brand codes remain constant throughout the seasons, yet the designer explores new techniques and interpretations to continually build upon his past work.

The designer routinely references charro culture, which was on display in his Spring 2027 collection’s fitted jackets, statement belt buckles and fringe-adorned pants. This season, Campillo also dives deeper into its signature horsehair detailing (which is dyed using vegetable pigments) via ruffled collars, elongated skirts, baseball caps and neckties.

Ahead, see all the looks from Campillo’s Spring 2027 collection.

Campillo Spring 2027

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That irritation was the starting part for her latest collection, titled “Oddities.” It explores the duality between “two things at odds,” such as masculinity versus femininity or sensuality versus strength. “I wanted to show that you can be both at the same time,” Ling said.

This translates into a lineup where polarizing concepts harmonize: There’s a corseted mini dress (a feminine silhouette) made from (traditionally masculine) suiting fabric; draped gowns with sharp lines; and a skirt suit with flowy movement. Grace Ling is known for its statement-making sculptural pieces, and while the collection includes sculpted elements, it is noticeably more commercially friendly than in past seasons.

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Ling’s two favorite pieces are the opening and closing looks (the only two couture outfits): The former is inspired by Adam & Eve, with the model wearing a sculpted leaf-motif top and skirt while holding an apple. “I wanted to start the show to set the tone of the allure of finding something so beautiful that can also be harmful,” Ling explained. “I wanted to explore the danger of beauty.” Meanwhile, the finale look comprises a sculpted raven-shaped top attached to a white draped skirt.

“I do believe this is our best collection to date,” Ling said. “The [clothing] quality is better, the seams are better, the tailoring is better. I really wanted to push myself with this collection.”

Ahead, see every look from Grace Ling’s Spring 2027 collection.

Grace Ling Spring 2027

Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

“The starting point for this collection was James Bond reversed, where the woman is the agent and the man is the ingenue being chased by her,” he told Fashionista backstage ahead of the show. “You’ll see a lot of strong images of women in the show who are very sexy, powerful and have ‘I’ll take control of this’ [energy].”

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This results in a fall proposal full of jumpsuits with plunging necklines, see-through, fitted dresses and hand-draped chiffon gowns. Tailoring — a Sergio Hudson signature — is ever-present, taking shape in bold-hued, monochromatic skirt suits. A standout look is a red chiffon dress, a piece “that has my heart right now,” Hudson said.

“We’re taking the Sergio Hudson woman into another decade,” Hudson added. “This is our 10-year anniversary, and our last show was a retrospective that elevated our classic woman. This season, I wanted to really move her forward and into a new direction.”

Ahead, see every look from Sergio Hudson’s Spring 2027 collection.

Sergio Hudson Spring 2027

Photos: Launchmetrics Spotlight

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For Spring 2027, Sandy Liang welcomes a sense of play through a soccer-inspired trompe l’oeil skirt, dolphin-print funnel-neck jackets and ruffled track pants. Per the show notes written by journalist Nicolaia Rips, Liang explores “the dream of functionality, the excitement of getting dolled up to run around and the joys of modularity.” Indeed, the collection feels like a whimsical take on the childhood joy of running around outside until the streetlights came on.

It incorporates elements of gorp-core — an aesthetic that merges outdoor utility with streetwear — via tactical fanny packs covered in pockets and backpack-inspired tops. Of course, this softened take on sport utility is rife with Sandy Liang signatures (otherwise known as “princess details”), including ruffles upon ruffles, oversized ribbons and bow-adorned…everything. Lace detailing, which shows up in midi-length round skirts and a mixed-media sweatshirt, was finished with clear paillettes to add a touch of shimmer as the garments move. Ballerina-esque tutus, polka-dot bra tops, sequined knee-length skirts and mini dresses round out the collection.

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Accompanying the Sandy Liang-ified sportswear is a romantic accessories assortment of wide headbands and pocket-embellished handbags. The nostalgic ode to play even extends to footwear via slip-on mules reminiscent of plastic play heels, white patent-leather ballet wedges and bunny flats (with gemstone eyes!).

“It’s technical dressing filtered through fantasy, practicality made precious, for the girl who lives in a fairytale, whose home team is Versailles,” the show notes read.

Ahead, see every look from Sandy Liang’s Spring 2027 collection.

Sandy Liang Spring 2027

Showgoers swapped heels for sensible flats, loafers, ballet sneakers, low-profile trainers, thong sandals and all manner of boots (cowboy, construction, Chelsea — you name it). Breezy skirts, oversized Bermuda shorts, baggy jeans rolled down at the waist, denim skirts and, yes, jorts served as the grounding focal points for most looks. Graphic T-shirts, ribbed tank tops and easy button-downs were popular top choices.

This laissez-faire approach to personal style extended to showgoers’ beauty choices, too: The most-worn looks included tousled waves, natural curls, center parts and low ponytails, usually appearing in combination with no-makeup makeup.

Keep scrolling to see the dressed-down street style looks from outside the Spring 2027 shows in New York.

View the 79 images of this gallery on the original article

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In the collection notes, Cheng reflected heavily on the brand’s inception, framing the line as a memoir of the past, and wrote, “Lady Mondegreen feels like the inevitable long-format exploration of the between-worlds feeling…It’s all the trappings of day-one Dauphinette.”

Naturally, the brand’s signature bread bag made its appearance, tassels and all, alongside other familiar motifs: wandering beetles, structured drop-waist skirts, jewel-encrusted dresses and garments heavy with button embellishments. 

But this season, Dauphinette’s flower signature reappeared in more evolved forms: in painted flowers brushed on through impasto techniques and a brand-new fabric unveiled for the first time.

“We developed a new pattern called Florganza,” Cheng said of the label’s newest textile innovation. “I’ve been working with flowers for a long time, and finally found a way to make the fabric, in a way that could include full pressed flowers, and a lot of them, but also still be pleated or manipulated as pretty much any other textile without cracking the flowers or breaking them.”

“Florganza,” used in three looks in the collection, infused pressed flowers between semi-transparent, opaque silk. According to the collection’s bill of materials, the process took 44 hours of hand-placing flowers sourced from local growers and the garden of Cheng’s mother.

For this collection, Cheng said the prominent difference from seasons past was restraint and discipline. “I’m not very traditional, and so I feel that this time we took more of an intentional approach, not just with each individual garment, but of the presentation and collection as a whole.”

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See every look from Dauphinette Spring 2027 below.

Dauphinette Spring 2027

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So it was quite a surprise to walk into Amari Carter’s debut NYFW presentation at The Standard Hotel and be greeted by the sounds of a gospel choir singing. For Spring 2027, the designer drew inspiration from her childhood days attending church with her grandmother. The resulting lineup takes the idea of “Sunday best” dressing and subverts it through sexier silhouettes.

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“I took the church [style], and reversed it and put my spin on it,” Carter told Fashionista backstage ahead of the presentation. “Growing up, I had to be conservative — seen but not heard. These pieces are my ‘woe is me’ moment.”

As part of her design process, Carter pushed herself to play around with tailoring and softened suiting. Take, for example, a soft pink skirt suit that hugs the body, and a matching white cropped blazer top and mini skirt. One of Carter’s favorite pieces is an open-back, halter-neck apron blazer.

“I hope this [debut] introduces our details, the minor, intricate tailoring I’m introducing now and my vibe,” she said.

Ahead, see every look from Amari Carter’s Spring 2027 collection.

Amari Carter Spring 2027

Photos: Tom Reeves/Courtesy of Amari Carter

Drama came to New York Fashion Week on Sunday at the COS Fall 2026 runway show, where CFDA CEO Steven Kolb took it upon himself to physically restrain multiple PETA activists attempting to storm the runway in protest of the use of wool in fashion. At least five representatives from the animal advocacy group disrupted the presentation, with several of them making it onto the runway holding signs reading, “Sheep beaten and bloodied for wool. Don’t buy it.” Security peacefully escorted most of them from the venue (a spacious floor in lower Manhattan’s WSA).

In one corner, though, Kolb held two protestors back from the runway, ripping their signs away, putting his hands over their mouths, and in one case, wrapping his legs around a female activist to restrain her. Fashionista happened to be seated nearby and captured the below footage of the events unfolding.

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Even though it’s not a member of the CFDA or even an American fashion label — its parent company is Sweden-based H&M Group, and its lead designer Karin Gustafsson is also Swedish — COS was one of NYFW’s major shows this season. The presentation drew celebrities like John Boyega, Sharon Stone, Michelle Williams and Luptia Nyong’o, as well as fashion notables like Jenna Lyons.

Ahead of the September shows in New York, PETA issued a press release saying it would “turn up the heat” on H&M Group over its use of wool. “PETA is calling out [H&M] for duping consumers with ‘responsible wool’ claims when a recent PETA Asia video exposé into a NATIVA-certified South African wool operation tied to H&M Group’s supply chain revealed workers kicking and stomping on terrified sheep, dragging them by their legs, and leaving them with gaping wounds after crude shearing,” read the PETA statement.

Representatives from COS and the CFDA did not immediately respond to Fashionista’s request for comment.

UPDATE: Friday, Sept. 18, 8:30 p.m.: In a Substack post Friday night, Kolb announced his resignation from the CFDA. “After twenty years leading the CFDA, I have made the difficult decision to step down as CEO and President,” he wrote. “I am enormously proud of what we have built together and believe this is the right moment for both me and the organization to begin a new chapter.”

The CFDA released its own statement on Instagram. “We respect Steven’s decision to step down and are grateful for his many years of leadership and service to the CFDA and our industry,” it read.

UPDATE: Wednesday, Sept. 16, 9:15 a.m.: On Tuesday, NBC reported that Moira Colley, senior director of media relations for PETA in New York, said the group plans to meet with Kolb and will no longer file a police report against him. “The group changed course after a visit to police and then consulting with attorneys, [Colley] said, and decided to seek the meeting with Kolb. He has agreed to meet, Colley said, adding that a time had not yet been set. The group intends to show Kolb videos of how sheep are mistreated for the use of their wool,” reported NBC New York. “We are willing to drop everything if we reach an understanding that benefits the animals,” the PETA representative told the news organization.

UPDATE: Monday, Sept. 14, 5:27 p.m.: The Board of the CFDA issued a revised version of its previous statement to press: “The CFDA takes this matter very seriously, and as a result, Mr. Kolb will be on leave pending a full review. The CFDA as an organization is committed to working with dissenting voices to find commonality and is engaged in efforts to move the American fashion industry forward while upholding the values of our membership, including respectful engagement with differing viewpoints.”

UPDATE: Monday, Sept. 14, 4:58 p.m.:
The Board of the CFDA issued the following statement to press shortly after Kolb’s Instagram posts: “The CFDA takes this matter very seriously, and as a result, Mr. Kolb has been placed on leave pending a full review. The CFDA as an organization is committed to working with dissenting voices to find commonality and is leading efforts to move the American fashion industry forward while upholding the values of our membership, including respectful engagement with differing viewpoints.” 

UPDATE: Monday, Sept. 14, 4:45 p.m.: On Monday afternoon, Steven Kolb posted to his personal Instagram stories that he will be “taking a voluntary leave from work and meeting with a professional to ensure it never happens again.” He also issued an apology, writing, “My actions were wrong, and I am deeply sorry. I take full responsibility for my actions. I apologize to [the PETA protestors] and to everyone who witnessed the incident.” Kolb also stated that he has accepted an invitation from PETA to meet and discuss their concerns. “I hope to have the opportunity to apologize in person to the two individuals who did not deserve that treatment,” he wrote. See the full statement in the images below.

Steven Kolb's Monday afternoon statements

UPDATE: Monday, Sept. 14, 9:55 a.m.: Representatives from the CFDA responded to Fashionista’s request for comment with the same statement it provided other news outlets: “Mr. Kolb acknowledged fully that he responded inappropriately in the moment and that the matter should have been handled by security. The CFDA agrees that these disruptions should be handle by the security professionals in place.”

UPDATE: Monday, Sept. 14, 9:15 a.m.: The CFDA issued the following statement to The New York Times and Business of Fashion: “Mr. Kolb acknowledged fully that he responded inappropriately in the moment and that the matter should have been handled by security…the CFDA agrees that these disruptions should be handled by the security professionals in place.”

UPDATE: Sunday, Sept. 13, 5:02 p.m.: PETA issued a press release regarding the matter, stating: “Moments ago, two PETA supporters were assaulted by the CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Steven Kolb, during a protest over wool on the COS runway. Kolb violently grabbed one protester, held her to the floor, wrapped a leg around her, and covered her mouth and nose with his hands as she shouted, ‘Sheep bloodied and beaten for wool!’ Kolb also shoved and grabbed a second PETA member who was filming the catwalk takeover and covered his face with his hand.”

PETA also stated that it is filing a police report and plans to pursue criminal charges.

“Today’s actions show how top people in fashion use violence to silence people who expose how sheep are beaten, bloodied, and violently killed for scarves and sweaters,” PETA Founder Ingrid Newkirk said in the release.

UPDATE: Sunday, Sept. 13, 4:49 p.m.: Steven Kolb issued the following statement to WWD and on his personal Instagram stories: “I reacted inappropriately to an incident at a show earlier today. It wasn’t my place to do so. I should have let the security team handle the situation.”

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For Spring 2027, the designer began by reflecting on different women a world apart from one other: the Nepali women visiting a dhunge dhara (a public stone tap for bathing and washing clothes) and a female Brooklynite dancing with a feather boa at a Zero Chill rave. Though these women may seem completely different on paper, Gurung recalled noticing the raver, who was “completely abandoned in her own joy,” donning the marigolds and jasmines that Nepali women often wear, and something clicked. “I was like, my goodness, two different places, New York and Nepal, but the same feeling,” he said.

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The opening look — a strapless white dress knotted around the hips — captures the sense of nonchalance Gurung was chasing. “It almost looks like she’s wrapped in bedsheets,” he said. “It holds her perfectly. It doesn’t confine her.” A parade of elegant floor-length dresses followed, with some designs featuring sensual cutouts in the back. Marigold and jasmine motifs fill the collection, showing up in an intricately beaded jacket, three-dimensional embroidered dresses and breezy organza chiffons.

“I’m trying to release the woman that I’m designing for from all the corsets and everything,” Gurung said. “There are a few of them, but [the inspiration is] just this ability for her to feel at ease, feel sensual.”

Ahead, see all the looks from Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2027 collection.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2027

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The collection’s opening look — a relaxed-fit blazer, paired with slouchy dark-wash jeans and snake-print cowboy boots — exemplifies this approach. Button-down tops with distinctive yokes, gingham-print jackets and metal-tipped collared shirts continue the theme of Southern ease without sacrificing Tibi’s signature minimalist aesthetic and pragmatism.

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“We were really interested in the visionaries who started the Grand Ole Opry and Dolly Parton and all of these individuals who were very comfortable just being themselves wherever they are,” Smilovic added.

One of the designer’s favorite pieces is a scarf skirt featuring her drawing of Nashville. “Tibi is about to have its 30th birthday next spring, and the scarf skirt is what launched my brand,” she explained. “It’s a nice way to reminisce.”

Another notable ode to Parton during the presentation? Her song “I Will Always Love You,” which played as models strutted for the finale walk.

Ahead, see every look from Tibi’s Spring 2027 collection.

Tibi Spring 2027

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“[It’s] about a retreat in the 1960s where men would go and dress as women and be their authentic selves. And I just loved the joy in those images, the freedom,” he said backstage after the show. “It reminded me of the naïveté of being a child during the summer.”

This spirit became the foundation of the collection, which comprised many ’60s-inspired silhouettes and details, but also conveyed a movement between masculinity and femininity throughout. “There was a central tension that was really about a traditional masculine 1960s working man’s wardrobe,” Altuzarra explained. “And then, on the other end, this idea of very overt, glamorous femininity, and how those met and the friction that it created and the tension that it created.”

While some looks veered more masculine and others more feminine, several combined elements of both: menswear-y shirts unbuttoned to reveal a bra top or paired with a silk skirt, Steve McQueen-esque Harrington jackets worn with voluminous circle skirts. Meanwhile, unfastened belts, unfinished hems and seams, cardigans worn askew and straps falling off shoulders imbued the collection with a sense of, as Altuzarra put it, “undoneness” and “patchworkiness” that felt different for the designer.

“There was definitely a little bit of a vibe shift for me [this season],” he said, although part of it was achieved by looking back at his earlier designs. “We were looking at a lot of the embroidery and print and silhouettes from those past collections and brought them back and amped them up,” he continued. “I also went back to a lot of silhouettes that I had done in the past that I hadn’t done in a long time, like more of a knee length, more of a slit as well, having more texture, more layering.”

The result was a collection that felt less tight or controlled than past outings, and instead more liberated, authentic and expressive — fueled by the spirit of Casa Susanna and its summer visitors.

See Altuzarra’s Spring 2027 collection below.

Altuzarra Spring 2027

Haller is part of the 2026 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and thus made the trip to New York for her first fashion week presentation, welcoming many of those cult fans alongside the industry figures involved in her CVFF selection — including Aurora James, Steven Kolb, Eva Chen, Christopher John Rogers and Chloe Malle. (Haller even had to interrupt our interview to walk Malle through her collection; I understood.)

“It is my first New York Fashion Week doing a presentation,” Haller said. “There’s just more attention with the Fashion Fund… It seemed like a big opportunity I couldn’t pass up.”

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So far, Haller has enjoyed the process; and if she feels pressure to take home a prize when the winner’s announced in October, she didn’t show it. “It’s super fun,” she said. “What I’m excited for is mentorship, the possibility of mentoring with somebody who’s built a business in a bigger way.” Haller’s current goals are incresing brand awareness and expanding internationally.

At the presentation, there was something special about seeing models — who were so diverse and unassuming, they were almost indistinguishable from the guests — wear and move around in head-to-toe Jamie Haller looks. It confirmed that, even though she launched her brand with shoes, it was always meant to encompass a full wardrobe. The numbers confirm it, too: Just two years after the expansion, her business is split 50/50 between footwear and apparel.

“It’s just been an amazing opportunity to tell a fuller story and to really show all the experience I have,” she said.

See Jamie Haller’s Spring 2027 collection below.

Jamie Haller Spring 2027

To that end, Simkhai drew on design inspiration from the ’70s and ’90s, but “then [re-imagined] them with more modern fabrics and new silhouettes.” To modernize the classic denim jacket he had on his inspiration board, for example, the designer used a version of the fabric with a “jelly coating” that lent a glossy sheen to the material. “Familiar materials become less immediately recognizable as they are coated, fringed, combined and reworked,” the show notes elaborated

“This season, I really wanted to push the design team and the atelier to just really reinvent some of the fabrics and… [find] that tension between innovation and craftsmanship,” Simkhai said.

The collection also plays with neutrals and bold primary colors in equal measure. But when asked what dictated which looks he rendered in reds, blues and yellows versus which ones in black and white, Simkhai attributed it to his general “creative process” rather than any specific intentionality.

Two standout looks from the collection, according to the designer, are the voluminous, custom three-dimensional guipure lace dresses with billowing, voluminous silhouettes (one white, one blue). Each garment includes 1.6 million stitches, he noted, adding “they’re all completely seamless…the artwork is kind of concealing the shape and the volume; it’s all embroidered as kind of a panel. So it was quite nuanced figuring that out and engineering the lace and the artwork to be so beautifully placed.”

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See every look from Simkhai Spring 2027 below.

Simkhai Spring 2027

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For her Spring 2027 collection, Shui drew inspiration from various layers of performance. As she told Fashionista backstage after the show, “Being in New York, using the street as the runway, is performance itself.” The collection’s starting point was Peking Opera, a traditional Chinese performance art known for its expressive, dramatic performances and bright, elaborate costumes. This translates into the looks through the use of feathers — a signature trim seen in traditional Peking Opera performer costumes.

The feathers then led Shui to draw inspiration from birds of paradise (the animals, not the plants) and peacocks. Sculpted headwear, Qipaos in saturated hues, embroidered matching sets and corseted gowns permeate the lineup. This is by far one of Kim Shui’s most dramatic collections yet. “I wanted to play with a little bit more drama,” she said. “I wanted to be more experimental and out there.” But even as Shui challenged herself to embrace drama, she still exercised plenty of restraint, which kept the collection from veering into costume territory.

“Ancient forms of spectacle and natural forms of beauty are not confined to the past; they continue to exist around us, refracted through the city,” the show notes read. “Across nature, theater, fashion and the city, the collection finds a shared language in the ways we adorn, transform and reveal ourselves.”

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Ahead, see every look from Kim Shui’s Spring 2027 collection.

Kim Shui Spring 2027

Photos: Launchmetrics Spotlight

“I thought that quote summarized the relationship of glamorous icons with the media and the darkness, but also the beauty of interpersonal connection,” Cowan told Fashionista backstage ahead of the show. The 32-look lineup explores the construction of Old Hollywood feminine identities, per the show notes: “The collection considers the actress suspended between woman and apparition, private self and public character, not as a passive object of fantasy, but as an active participant in its creation,” they read.

Cowan channeled the Old Hollywood cinematic theme into intentional fabric choices and construction techniques. For the latter, many garments use vintage fabrics from the 1920s through the 1950s. One standout piece is a dress made from a 1940s wedding veil. Composition-wise, Cowan played with lace, crystal and corsetry.

“I hope [people] are transported to a cinematic world and forget about their problems a little bit and just enjoy beauty,” Cowan said of his intention behind the presentation.

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Below, see every look from Christian Cowan’s Spring 2027 collection.

Christian Cowan Spring 2027

Photos: Launchmetric Spotlights